![]() |
#15
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Imo, you are concentrating on pH way too much, and calcium and alkalinity not enough. You need a calcium kit as well. Provided the calcium and alkalinity levels are already balanced you will use equal parts of Kent Tech A & B. If they are out of balance you will balance it by using only one of the parts (A is calcium and B is alkalinity if I remember correctly).
Balanced Calcium and Alkalinity: (as per Randy Holmes-Farley) 360 ppm to 0 dKH 370 ppm to 1.4 dKH 380 ppm to 2.8 dKH 390 ppm to 4.2 dKH 400 ppm to 5.6 dKH 410 ppm to 7 dKH (natural seawater) 420 ppm to 8.4 dKH 430 ppm to 9.8 dKH 440 ppm to 11.2 dKH 450 ppm to 12.6 dKH 460 ppm to 14 dKH In addition to what everyone else has said, your tank is brand spanky new if I remember correctly. Was the live rock cured or uncured? Did it have much of a cycle? The more nutrients that are allowed to break down in the tank and go through the nitrogen cycle the lower the pH will be. This is why we use such things as protein skimmers to remove dissolved organics before they can be processed by the nitrogen cycle. "Dirty" tanks will generally also have a lower pH because of such a large amount of organics breaking down. Personally, I wouldn't worry about the low pH right now. Worry about keeping your tank clean, keep detritus from settling, provide fresh outside air to your house (open a window at night), make sure your skimmer is of suitable size and quality for your tank, keep skimmer clean and skimming wet instead of dry, keep calcium, alkalinity and magnesium within their balanced levels, etc. If everything else is in order pH will fall into place. I would strongly suggest a person not try to alter pH directly in a reef tank. |