![]() |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I'm looking to see if anyone has any advice for me in my current situation. I recently added some items to my Reef tank - which I have had running with corals, anenome, two tangs very successfully for about 9 months. I decided to get some more stuff a few weeks ago. I added an Elegence Coral (unsure of Aussie or Indi), Maxima Clam, Flame Angel and Leopard Wrasse. The stock all came frame the same tank from the store and I was told everything had been there for a long time (30+ days). Which was perfect because I needed stuff that could go straight into my tank or I didn't want it.
Well simply put I'm an idiot and should just not listen to what they say. The clam died 5 dies in - was 100% fine opening and looked amazing until i came home in the 5th and it was dead. 10th day Elegence coral tanked it and died. 12th day Flame Angel has 1-2 visible spots of ich. Leopard Wrasse looking great still. All the fish eat like beasts eating my garlic and Selcon enriched shrimp / Thera-A NLS pellets... ect Basically I think I'm screwed. What should I do with my fish at this point? All my other fish have no visible ich but at best I can setup a 10g QT. Last time i tried to QT my last flame and do hypo salinity for my previous tank it just simply got 10x worse and died. I was thinking of getting a UV Sterilizer but I read mixed things about those. My tank seems to have great parameters 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Ammonia 390MG cal PH 8 Phosphate - I dont trust my test kit for phos - says 0 Salinity 1.26 I use Nitra-Guard so I always have perfect Nitrates .. I don't know what to do I'm afraid I just doomed all my fish to death by ich
__________________
27gal Reef |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Healthy fish don't normally die from ich. Feed them well, keep the water clean and make sure they aren't stressed.
In the future, a fish in the store for 30 days isn't free of ich. My tank has ich in it, I haven't seen a spot for a long time. Unless a fish has specifically been treated for ich in QT, it likely has it.
__________________
Brad |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Stress is stress unfortunately. happens to the best of us.
With the clam, was it very (very) carefully lifted from the substrate without any effort, or was it attached and was pulled at all with any force (even from the bag)? Ich is something we all deal with - And the best defence once 1+ fish is showing visible white-spot symptoms in the tank is to ensure they are happy (eating well, and keep soaking their food in garlic). THEN -- don't stress them out! No more rapid changes, keep your hands out of the tank, don't spook them, no flashlights searching for spots while they are sleeping, etc... chill out (i'm often guilty of much of this)... A stressed fish is more susceptible to ich, and making a stressed fish more stressed is a recipe for disaster.
__________________
Single System Setup: 210G SPS reef, 225G FOWLR, 72G water change, 50G frag, 120G sump. I promise a journal at some point! (anyone need some coral frags? I likely always have stuff that is frag-ready) |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
cheers, Rich all that we do is touched with ocean, yet we remain on the shore of what we know http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/5/aquarium |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Thank guys for the advice I'll try not to freak out. I've just had bad experiences with ich however could be from my over acting to correct the breakouts. Should I not do another water change for a little while? Should I feed twice a day for a while?
As for the clam - A tang knocked it over one day but I didn't think much of it - that probably is what did it - tore it's foot.
__________________
27gal Reef |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ths-facts.html
^^^ This is a good read For my next setup, I have 2 transfer tanks & QT tank Before they will be going into the DT |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Your fish still need a healthy environment so I wouldn't stop the water changes. Water changes provide clean healthy water for the fish not to mention they help keep most of your parameters more stable.
As far as feeding goes, fish in the wild graze and hunt for food all day. You should be feeding your fish at least twice a day, but only enough that they consume 90% of it within a few minutes(2 minutes not 10 minutes). I feed my fish three times a day, a few shrimp pellets and a few algae wafers in the am while the lights are out, then two meals after work of frozen and flake. Soon I will even be getting an auto feeder so they will get a few more mid day snacks. Just try to keep your hands out of the water for awhile or spooking the fish too much by other actions.
__________________
cheers, Rich all that we do is touched with ocean, yet we remain on the shore of what we know http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/5/aquarium |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
__________________
Current tank---125 gallon mixed reef 60 gallon sump, Reef octopus nw200 skimmer, Rapid LEDs, Maxspec gyre, Mp10s, Fuge, Biweekly 20% WC, QT everything |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]() What exactly is a transfer tank anyway?
__________________
27gal Reef |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() The tank transfer method of QT for Ich is a systematic routine that catches the Cryptocaryon mid life cycle when it's no longer on your fish. While the parasite basically lives on your fish, it does not breed there. It drops off your fish roughly 3-4 days after hosting it to drop into the substrate and reproduce. One the original parasite multiplies, the many, many, many, offspring release into the water column to attach themselves to all your fish and start the cycle all over again. Multiplying many fold in the process.
So understanding the life cycle of the crytocaryon goes a long way to see how this method is probably the most gentle method on fish (IMHO) So borrowing the info from RC, here's how to do it: Firstly, you basically need 2 sets of everything for 2 tanks. They don't have to be all that big. I use a couple of 20 gal, Aquaclear 150's for some water movement (no filter), 2 heaters, 2 - 3" PVC elbows or T's, optional is 2 net's and maybe 2 MJ400's depending on the fish. Day 1: set up 1 tank matching salinity, temp, ph etc to the water your fish are in currently Monitor that tank carefully. Having a ammonia badge in the tank is very useful. Your fish will only be there for a couple days, not usually long enough for ammonia to develop to dangerous levels, but you need to watch just in case. I usually set up my second tank on the eve of day 3 so it's set up for the next morning. Day 4: in the AM, preferably before the lights come on over the tank, drain the first tank and discard all the water. I usually drain the tank down until only a few inches of water remains, scoop the fish up in my hands or a small bowl with holes that allows the majority of water to drain away, minimizing the chances of water borne parasites making it into the second tank. Put your fish in the second tank. Finish draining the first tank. Clean EVERYTHING. I use a 10% bleach solution and let everything soak in it for an hour or 2. then rinse VERY well and let air dry. Day 7: repeat the process Day 10: repeat Day 14: repeat and you're done. Continue to watch your fish for anything else it may have for a week or 2 depending on your QT philosophy and enjoy your healthy tank. Last edited by daplatapus; 05-28-2014 at 02:09 PM. |