Ok, let's hear it!

[lastlight]

Originally Posted by kien

I dunno, I would have assumed so. If you read the LED manufacturer's literature they show a spectral graph usually. The full spectrum units tend to have the "full" spread across the spectrum. Then the user is free to play with the amount of spectrum they want to throw out by infinitely adjusting each LED. At least that was my impression of how "full spectrum" LED units worked. I say we ask Steve. He'll know.

as far as i know LED have sharp spikes (each type of LED present) in those plots and manufacturer's just connect the dots and make those pretty graphs to more closely match LED output to that of halides.

[sphelps]

Originally Posted by lastlight

as far as i know LED have sharp spikes (each type of LED present) in those plots and manufacturer's just connect the dots and make those pretty graphs to more closely match LED output to that of halides.

I think it's the same for everything, the equipment only measures peak output at certain spectrum then they plot best fit curves. You're right about LEDs and the narrow spectrum for colored LEDs but the white LEDs have broad spectrum curves so it's hard to say what the real curves look like vs other lights.

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

No, gonna try full T5. MH gives me to much humidity and rusts the lock on my front door, locking me out in the rain and then I'm not happy.
anyway, ya, power module 8 bulb fixture. Should be fun

can't you just add smaller fixtures around your LEDs to suplement the LEDs (being serious now) would be a shame to get rid of the leds

Steve

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by lastlight

good example is the true hqi ballasts i spent a lot of time and money buying to properly run 250w radiums. the m80 ballast is no longer made. aquamedic had their own version they were selling but not sure they still make those either.

Ah, but you are in luck sir. The M80 is a good old core & coil magnetic ballast with 3 components that should be available with a little searching. Transformer, capacitor & ignitor. Provided the ballast is not encapsulated (covered in black goo to make it water proof), the average schmoe should be able to replace any of these components diy. It's usually the capacitor that goes bad & they're dead simple to change out. You just need to be aware that it's a pretty big capacitor & when fully charged can give you a good buzz. If in doubt, a big screwdriver with an insulated handle may be used to short the two terminals & discharge the capacitor. Ignitor & transformer may be a bit more difficult to find, but just because a ballast manufacturer no longer makes the complete ballast, doesn't mean the parts to repair it can't be found. If you search HID Pocket Guide or HID Troubleshooting (Advance/Phillips), you should be able to find a pdf with all the info. Part numbers should be stamped somewhere on the capacitor & ignitor, transformer, not sure. This old school technology is actually pretty bullet proof & will go a long time.

http://www.candelacorp.com/products/...1A5880500D.pdf

I reckon even these options will go away eventually, but the fact that M80 is an ANSI specification bodes well that it will be around for a while yet.

Personally though, I'm on the LED boat & won't be changing back.

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by StirCrazy

can't you just add smaller fixtures around your LEDs to suplement the LEDs (being serious now) would be a shame to get rid of the leds

Steve

Nah, too much work. The T5 look good so far, and I'm happier than I thought I'd be. LED don't really add much other than some shimmer and ramping for sunrise/set. Ok, that's pretty cool, but something I can live without if I have to.

[don.ald]

How do these sit over your tank?
Legs or hanging...how do you access the tank

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by don.ald

How do these sit over your tank?
Legs or hanging...how do you access the tank

Asking me? I don't know yet. Leaning to hanging, but I might get a rack made like Japarto uses on the display tank.

[lastlight]

Yes sorry I should have been more specific. It's the ignitor by Advance. Las I read they're not made anymore and next to impossible to find.

Originally Posted by mike31154

Ah, but you are in luck sir. The M80 is a good old core & coil magnetic ballast with 3 components that should be available with a little searching. Transformer, capacitor & ignitor. Provided the ballast is not encapsulated (covered in black goo to make it water proof), the average schmoe should be able to replace any of these components diy. It's usually the capacitor that goes bad & they're dead simple to change out. You just need to be aware that it's a pretty big capacitor & when fully charged can give you a good buzz. If in doubt, a big screwdriver with an insulated handle may be used to short the two terminals & discharge the capacitor. Ignitor & transformer may be a bit more difficult to find, but just because a ballast manufacturer no longer makes the complete ballast, doesn't mean the parts to repair it can't be found. If you search HID Pocket Guide or HID Troubleshooting (Advance/Phillips), you should be able to find a pdf with all the info. Part numbers should be stamped somewhere on the capacitor & ignitor, transformer, not sure. This old school technology is actually pretty bullet proof & will go a long time.

http://www.candelacorp.com/products/...1A5880500D.pdf

I reckon even these options will go away eventually, but the fact that M80 is an ANSI specification bodes well that it will be around for a while yet.

Personally though, I'm on the LED boat & won't be changing back.

[Rice Reef]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Nah, too much work. The T5 look good so far, and I'm happier than I thought I'd be. LED don't really add much other than some shimmer and ramping for sunrise/set. Ok, that's pretty cool, but something I can live without if I have to.

Going for the hybrids or straight t5s? I've been thinking hybrids the last month...

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by Rice Reef

Going for the hybrids or straight t5s? I've been thinking hybrids the last month...

Straight T5. Got a good deal on a unit, so that's what I have to work with.