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#21
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![]() oh that's a great idea. i've left my skimmer at it's ideal situation setting to avoid messing with it later. i might do my water change tonight as long as i can. i can't drain more than a few gallons before my return pump needs to be shut down.
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#22
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![]() Quote:
Just don't get lazy with your nutrient management regime. I've been super lazy with my GFO since the beginning of April and as soon as chemi-clean wiped out the cyano... BAM! dino outbreak that was like 6 times worse than the cyano. I just finally got around to testing phosphate last night: 0.04ppm. Oops. |
#23
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![]() to save money i'm mostly monitoring film algae on my glass to help determine gfo replacement. my levels must be adequately low as the film comes back pretty slow. i have a feeling my cyano is fueled by something else but yes i have been quite religious with my nutrient control thus far. makes having cyano all the more frustrating since i never had it once in any of my previous tanks other than the last nano during the upgrade/neglect phase.
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#24
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![]() Well this chemiclean stuff is no joke. 24 hrs and pretty much all of it was gone. Thanks to reefwars for the initial recommendation.
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#25
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![]() I tried pretty much everything to get rid of cyano, chemiclean, water changes, limiting food, etc... worked for a short term and returned.
What really solved my cyano was my new skimmer. It skim out each day what my previous one skimmed out in a few weeks. No more cyano since I got this skimmer. I did not have a lot of cyano but it was very slowly growing and invading my tank. First it was only on the sand, then started on the liverock etc... now no more. Is your skimmer powerfull enough for your bioload?
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#26
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![]() Lots of different things can cause cyano outbreaks, old lamps, dead flow areas, excess nutrients, etc. Bio-pellets tend to cause cyano as well. I found dosing MB7 once a week, while running pellets, allowed me to stop any cyano blooms. I also turkey bast my rocks once a week and stir up my sandbed every 2 weeks to prevent any dietritus or gas build ups.
Chemiclean works great for removing cyano, however, it really is a bandaid fix most of the time. Whatever caused the cyano in the first place is still present in your setup and may cause it again over time. Also, the more and more you use chemiclean, the harder and harder it is to remove the cyano. |
#27
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![]() Quote:
I think it's been about 2 years since the last time I had to use Chemiclean (and it does work). I dose MB7 regularly, and rarely see any signs of cyano. When I do, it is usually when I let the MB7 dosing lapse a bit. All I do then is increase the dosage again for a while, turkey baste any signs of cyano, and I am good again. But it never gets out of hand with me anymore. The way MB7 works is, it supplies beneficial bacteria that out competes cyano. It also helps get rid of mulm and other detritus in your tank, making it look a lot cleaner over all. Keeps the water crystal clear, too.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#29
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![]() Of course!...
__________________
Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#30
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![]() I don't know anything about MB7, do you know if you can dose it in a doser? Or does it need to be refridgerated and/or shaken before use (like Coral Snow) ?
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