New Jarduino build gets started - Page 8

daplatapus · #71 03-15-2013, 01:11 PM

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

reefme · #72 03-15-2013, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daplatapus

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

I do, but want to know how to wire them before before I order LDD drivers.

daplatapus · #73 03-15-2013, 02:00 PM

Easiest way is to get a hold of a couple PCB boards like the ones I showed earlier in the thread.
Here's a quick sketch of how they're wired up from a search I did. I did not make this and I haven't wired mine up yet so proceed with a bit of caution. The LED's on the sketch are backwards, but you get the idea. I know Scubasteve has some wired up and running, maybe he'll chime in here later. Depending on how many LDD's you'd need, I do have a few spare you an get off me for what I paid for them.

reefme · #74 03-15-2013, 02:31 PM

Thanks,

I better use UNO to test it out instead of MEGA. Is the driver and Arduino share the same ground?

daplatapus · #75 03-15-2013, 02:34 PM

I believe so.

reefme · #76 03-15-2013, 02:43 PM

Do have extra LDD-H boards for sell? Or you can tell me where to get them?

ScubaSteve · #77 03-15-2013, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reefme

Planning to use mosfet, but Meanwell LDD driver is better. Can some one show me how to wire this? Does it requires any resistors?

The mosfet approach is a lot more difficult to implement, even if you know what you are doing. The LDDs work basically in the same way but have a much more efficient switching scheme and run a lot cooler (not to mention added thermal and overcurrent protection). The schematic Dom showed you is correct and, yes, the LEDs are backwards. I was in a rush when I drew that up

. The resistor connecting the PWM pin is optional but is there to cause the fixture to fail off in case the driver becomes disconnected from the controller. Without this it fails to 100% on. Not the end of the the world, but the pull-down resistor is more rigorous in terms of design.

Vin-, the ground/negative of the controller and the ground of the power supply are all connected together. If not, you get funny behaviors like the LEDs operating at 50% max output and fried drivers. Don't ask how is figured this out.

reefme · #78 03-15-2013, 04:52 PM

Thanks,

Will give these drivers a try. Do you know where is the cheapest.
Looking at 10 of the 1A and 10 of the .7A.

daplatapus · #79 03-16-2013, 12:24 AM

Thanks, scubasteve! I actually didn't know that was you that had posted that diagram, lol. I wish people kept the same user names from forum to forum

Reefme:
Sorry I don't have any boards. I actually bought mine off of a guy on RC who had extra. You might try there.
I'll PM you when I find the info on where I got my LDD's from, pretty much the cheapest I've found.

Chatouille · #80 03-17-2013, 08:56 PM

How’s your project been coming Dom?

Still not done here, it’s been hard to find the time to finish this project.

Anyways…. here’s where I am so far.

Still have a few tweaks to do.... might order a few more LED's, update Jarduino to 1.2, and work on a cable mount.