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#21
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![]() OK have my glass here. So i will make a writeup from start to finish inc the bean overflow build. I could be wrong in some area's of my documentation but will have you guys to help make it proper. Also again thanks for the help
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#22
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![]() ok wanted to start and tape the glass. Was gonna run green tape over each pane to make nice even silicone lines.
So is 1/4in a good line on each pane or should i go bigger? here is a example of my bottom pane i taped. |
#23
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![]() Quote:
Bit of a detail note: try to make little tabs at the end of the tape for you to grab on to. It doesn't seem sticky now but once it's been on there for a bit that green stuff can stick pretty good and once everything is all gooey and covered with silicone it can be a pain in the ass to remove the tape and still keep things looking nice. |
#24
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![]() Tanks built with 1-piece trim, like say a hagen, oceanic, perfecto, or all-glass tank, will have the front, back, and sides, resting on top of the bottom pane of glass. (there may be some exceptions with shape tanks or drilled tanks, but im referring to 'boxes').
Uneveness can definitely cause cracking in any build type or fasion. It is always best to make sure you have a proper installation surface anyways. When building your own tank... any custom tanks I have built myself or have seen built at the glass/tank shop I worked at, or ordered myself from other builders, always have the sides, front and back, around the bottom piece. Even if you are adding trim after, if its cut-to fit trim, I still recommend going around the bottom.
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No more tanks ![]() Cheers, Chris |
#25
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![]() All the custom tanks I've had made were done with sides around the bottom as well. I helped hoist the 3/4" glass into place. I think had that been installed on top of the bottom... well all the silicone would have squeezed right out under the weight of itself!
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#26
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![]() Ya scuba i was gonna add the extra amount on the sides also with easy pull off tape thanks for your help yet again. Any my surface is 100% true
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