what is this

what you have here is Dino's on the rocks and sand the stuff on the glass may be the start of HA bloom because of the Dino's. classic new tank don't worry leave the lights off till the Dino's are gone from the sand and start with actinic lights only for a couple of days and see what happens MH will just start the Dino's again if they are not completely gone do a water change before you turn the lights back on. I my self do not do black out unless the tank is in direct like of a window indirect light is diffused allot but the time it gets to a tank. The Dino's will go way with indirect light and it means you can have the lights off a bit longer unless you have a Nem in there. Corals will last along time without light huge storms can last weeks and black out there world for the entire time of storm. Just think of it like you are recreating a large storm and they have to weather it out they will bounce back. back to the lighting I would ditch the MH and borrow a T5 unit for a bit a bit less intense and will give the tank a bit of time to balance out and age. remember to go slow MH are great for corals but a good T5 unit will do the same in a small and shallow tank as long as you are dealing with softies and lps monti caps seem to do well under them also. After a few months go back to the MH and you should not have any problems. If you can not borrow or afford a different light fixture do a couple day with the actinic only and then have the MH on for 2 hrs at hight noon on your setting so if you run 10 to 10 the some where around 3pm to 5pm or 4pm to 6pm would do the trick. I know a guy that only has run his MH for 3 hrs and the rest of the time it 2 10K T5 for about 2 hrs each side of the HM and 2 actinic T5 for the remainder of the daylight setting split on both sides of the MH. He does not run T5's when he has the MH on I'm not sure why. just my 2 cents, I have experimented with this lighting scheme and the corals don't seem to mind one bit they are nice and colorful and brighter than before under the actinic lights.

Bill

[art]

Tyler
On my reef builder it says 2.9-4 meg/liter or 8-11dKH
Here is what I use Hagen test kit:
105-125 mg/liter = The ideal range for saltwater conditions.
<105mg/liter = Carbonate Hardness needs to be raised. Adjust with an appropriate buffer.
>125mg/liter = Carbonate Hardness is unusually high. Consult your aquarium care specialist.
I hope this helps.

[art]

Dinoflagellates, I am quite sure that is the problem. Also the hair stuff on the glass might also be dinos, because after being in the dark it looks a lot like gray hair. My tank has greatly improved except for the xenia. I put the actinic lights on for 2.5hr. It helped some.