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  #21  
Old 04-27-2009, 04:57 PM
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After you made this post, I do what you do Myka. I also add cupamine to the water as well, but am not sure if it will do too much. I just do it anyways. My biggest concern is Laurie's disaster and I wonder what protocols should be followed to prevent marine velvet.

I have not lost any fish do disease since, and when I removed some fish from my system and rehomed them, I added prazipro to the bucket of water I was transporting them in... just to be sure the fish was not carrying anything.

I have had no disease of any kind since my last disaster and appreciate you posting this info...

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TTT. I would really like to read more about people's prodcedures.
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2009, 06:27 PM
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For my softie corals I prepare a solution of 50/50 salt water. Basically a cup of water from the tank and a cup of fresh and then a half cap of iodine.

I shake the hell out of the coral for 2 minutes in this solution. If nothing nasty floats off then in the tank it goes. If something washes off I don't like it goes in the garbage.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2009, 06:31 PM
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Back in my discus/angels days; process was pretty clear...

When you receive new fish, unbag them into bucket - dose meds at ~ 2x recomended dose - then start your drip... After 1.5-2hrs transfer by net to a clean bucket of water, (rinse) then into the tank.

Whether this works with SW - to be determined... But it was pretty much SOP for the Discus, and I usually used it with the wild caught / risky source angels too.
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2009, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midgetwaiter View Post
A dip procedure is no a replacement for a proper QT.
After everything I've been through with marine velvet I have to agree. FYI Dips do not get rid of velvet and velvet can not be seen in the bucket after a dip is done.
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  #25  
Old 04-27-2009, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason McK View Post
My Current fish Acclimation proceedure

Float bag to acclimate temperate
Open bag.
Cup hand in bag
slowly bring fish out of bag with my hand.
Release in tank

My Current acclimation of Coral (know source)
float bag
Open bag
Mount coral
...
I follow the same procedure except fish and corals go into a quarantine tank.
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  #26  
Old 04-27-2009, 08:28 PM
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How long do you QT for typically? What do you watch for? If the fish appear healthy after a set amount of days, do you shorten the time at all? How long does it take for disease to usually show?

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I follow the same procedure except fish and corals go into a quarantine tank.
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Old 04-27-2009, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my2rotties View Post
How long do you QT for typically? What do you watch for? If the fish appear healthy after a set amount of days, do you shorten the time at all? How long does it take for disease to usually show?
If there are no signs of problems then I quarantine the fish for 6 weeks. If there are problems the fish goes into a hospital tank, treated and then quarantined for 6 weeks after treatment.
Problems to watch for, excessive flashing (scratching), rapid respiration, not eating, no interest in surroundings (constant hiding) and any obvious parasites ( I have even used a magnifying glass ) .
By the time the fish goes into the display tank, they have resigned themselves to living in a glass box, are gaining weight and they aren't scared of me constantly peering at them
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  #28  
Old 04-27-2009, 08:48 PM
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[quote=my2rotties;415076] My biggest concern is Laurie's disaster and I wonder what protocols should be followed to prevent marine velvet.

[quote]

After all the reading I've done on velvet the only way to advoid it getting into your system (from a fish that has it) is to QT the fish in a seperate tank disconected from the main display system. Dips will not work in the long run against marine velvet. The symptoms to watch for is loss of appetite, and rapid breathing. After these symptoms the fish will become covered in what looks like a dusting of flour or a velvety sheen. Unfortunately by the time you can visablely see this disease it will most likely be to late to save your fish.
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  #29  
Old 04-27-2009, 08:58 PM
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I recall you mentioning how large your QT tank is but I don't remember. Also how big is the hospital tank? I am done for adding fish now and feel very fortunate I did not have a big disaster... I know to stop now.

Do you QT corals for six weeks as well? What do you look for with those, since we will be adding corals to the display one or two more times until next winter. If winter ever ends in my parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marie View Post
If there are no signs of problems then I quarantine the fish for 6 weeks. If there are problems the fish goes into a hospital tank, treated and then quarantined for 6 weeks after treatment.
Problems to watch for, excessive flashing (scratching), rapid respiration, not eating, no interest in surroundings (constant hiding) and any obvious parasites ( I have even used a magnifying glass ) .
By the time the fish goes into the display tank, they have resigned themselves to living in a glass box, are gaining weight and they aren't scared of me constantly peering at them
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  #30  
Old 04-27-2009, 09:05 PM
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What I find disturbing is these symptoms sound identical to what happened to my three angels I lost. However nobody else got ill, and nothing has been amiss since those losses. When I added the regal into the acclimation tank, I was sweating bullets watching him and waiting. I still to this day have no clue as to what the meds the store gave me were just in case. I know it is not copper.

[quote=fishoholic;415161][quote=my2rotties;415076] My biggest concern is Laurie's disaster and I wonder what protocols should be followed to prevent marine velvet.

Quote:

After all the reading I've done on velvet the only way to advoid it getting into your system (from a fish that has it) is to QT the fish in a seperate tank disconected from the main display system. Dips will not work in the long run against marine velvet. The symptoms to watch for is loss of appetite, and rapid breathing. After these symptoms the fish will become covered in what looks like a dusting of flour or a velvety sheen. Unfortunately by the time you can visablely see this disease it will most likely be to late to save your fish.
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