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#1
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![]() Hello everyone!!! i would like to thank everyone for the excellent resource of this forum, i spent last year reading up on switching over to SW setup. I have a 50G tank currently FW setup i plan to convert. 50g tank, 2217 eheim cannister filter, 24" fluorescentlight, aquaclear 802/70 powerhead with attachment filter, and heater. I would like to setup a FOWLR setup, i plan on having a few clownfish and a couple tangs something simple but nice. Unfortunately my tank is not drilled and have no space to put a sump in stand, also concerned about noise. I plan on getting an aqua c pro protein skimmer or a Tunze DOC Protein Skimmer 9005 any suggestion? I also plan on picking up Tunze Turbelle Stream 2 Pump 6065 not sure if i need it cuz i have aquaclear 802/70 powerhead. For light i plan on getting an actinic bulb. I was wondering if i still have a use for the eheim 2217 eheim cannister filter. How much liverock should i pick up? i plan on getting Caribsea Arag-Alive Indo Pacific Black Substrate 20lbs. Anything else i need or suggestions? Any tips help or recomendations would be great. this is a first time setup for FOWLR.
Thanks everyone! |
#2
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![]() Protein skimmer is most important. Have heard tunze protein skimmers, especially nano aren't that great. stick with the aqua c idea...
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![]() 65g/20g reef system, Euro RS-80, 2x tunze 6055, mod 6025, mag7, 250 HQI w/192 actinics, 100 lbs. LR 46g FOWLR |
#3
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![]() Quote:
The canister filter, either don't use it at all or just fill it up with live rock rubble. If you use any of the Eheim medias the filter will become a nitrate factory and that is no good. You can also use it to run a bag of carbon if you choose to run carbon, but the flow will be too fast for phosphate media. Consider adding a TLF PhosBan Reactor to the tank right from day one to help keep phosphates under control. I would suggest you use RO/DI water to help with nuisance algaes, but it is not neccessary for a FOWLR. If you ever plan on upgrading to a reef tank you should start with RO/DI right from day one of your FOWLR. For lighting, if you just have a single bulb you need to find a 50/50 bulb. The actinic alone is not sufficient. It is a blue/purple light. The 50/50 is 50% daylight and 50% actinic. I would go with the Tunze skimmer. You may find the 6065 along with the 802 powerhead will be sufficient, but you may end up wanting more flow. If so, check out the Koralia powerheads. They are Tunze knockoffs, and you get a lot for what you pay for. Personally I don't like the black substrate, but if that floats your boat by all means go for it. It just doesn't look natural as most oceans have white sand! I also think the "live" sand is quite the gimmick, but again your choice. 20lbs of sand will probably only give you about 1/2" of sand, which is great for cleanup, but you may want more for esthetics. Live rock for a FOWLR I would suggest about 1lb per gallon, for reef about 3/4lb per gallon. Also, please read the two Guides in my signature. Both of them will help you out. The Hair Algae one will help you to prevent problems before they happen, and the live rock and cycling one will be very handy for you. ![]() |
#4
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![]() WHA???>>>...
I spent so much on fresh live sand for my last couple tanks.... I thought that the introduction of the micro-organisms was essential to establishing my new systems but I've never done one without so I wouldn't know what diff it actually made.... I would stick with the Tunze over the aquac too, people will jump on me for this, but try the red sea prizm or prizm pro, best bang for buck skimmer out there unless you are planning a big bioload, then go quality... |
#5
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#6
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![]() Ya, I have to agree with this. And unless you're very familiar with the tank you're getting sand from, I'd stay clear of that too, no idea what you might be introducing.
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Brad |
#7
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![]() Yes, good point to bring up. There really is no reason to add live sand of any kind if you're using live rock. The live rock will seed the sand. I don't bother with any kind of live sand, unless I'm replacing a sandbed while the tank is still running in which case I opt for the "live" bagged sand for the simple fact that it's pre-rinsed and causes less cloudiness upon initial use. I really think that's the only benefit of the "live" bagged sand.
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#8
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![]() If that is the case I am in big trouble I have sand in my tank from about four sources right now.
![]() Just make sure it comes from a healthy tank. ![]() I am waiting to add some nice rock and sand after this tank has cycled. ![]()
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150 Gal system 3'x3' 400W M/H, Bekett skimmer, Dart return,1/4 HP Chiller 180 Gal Drop tank, LED lights, Bubble master 250 skimmer,Hammerhead on a closed loop, Speed wave return. |