SPS Tank O Death

[michika]

Originally Posted by Jason McK

Light sure is a possibility. your running a 150W DE right? what is the UV is not being stopped? That would do it.

I'm running 1x 175w SE XM 15K MH on an icecap ballast inside a luminarc reflector, and 2x 28w actinic PCs on a PFO ballast. I've got my other reflector, a batwing handy so I'll leave my MHs off today, and this afternoon I'll switch out the reflector and try it for a couple of weeks.

How would I go about testing for other contaminants? I contacted AWT in the states and finally got a response, they can't test Canadian water as they can't ship it back to us, and we may have problems getting it to them.

Does anyone know of similar businesses in Canada?

[michika]

Originally Posted by Myka

I wasn't aware that GE puts out a slilcone specifically for aquariums. I've never seen it. I use All-Glass silicone.

[Nevin]

The metal mesh used for door/window bug screens would work, less likely to burst into flames than the gauze...

Regards,
Nevin

[Jason McK]

Sorry About the mess up with your Lighting. I have not heard a lot of good things about the 14K XM bulbs. Very low Par from what I know. You may be dealing with the revers problem. Not enough light

J

[michika]

Now that would be odd if I had too little light. I have a 250w bulb and ballast for my 180 that I would consider trying, although I'm really afraid of baking my tank.

I read that about the XM bulbs, this is my last XM bulb, after hearing about the PAR problems i don't want to stick with them. On the other hand though I've been running XMs for awhile now, 400ws on my 230g and 175w on my previous cube, and actually saw a lot of growth and nice colors from them. Still though I'm looking for a new bulb for my 180g project. I'll have to visit Sanay's site to pick out my next bulb choice.

I think I've figured out my next two tests;
1) the light, downgrade the reflector for a couple of weeks. Its a cheap test to run, I don't have to spend any money.
2) ORP and Ozone, first part will be testing my ORP and then from there either purchasing a ozonier or not.

Any other steps anyone can suggest I try?

[fkshiu]

Originally Posted by michika

Now that would be odd if I had too little light. I have a 250w bulb and ballast for my 180 that I would consider trying, although I'm really afraid of baking my tank.

I read that about the XM bulbs, this is my last XM bulb, after hearing about the PAR problems i don't want to stick with them. On the other hand though I've been running XMs for awhile now, 400ws on my 230g and 175w on my previous cube, and actually saw a lot of growth and nice colors from them. Still though I'm looking for a new bulb for my 180g project. I'll have to visit Sanay's site to pick out my next bulb choice.

I think I've figured out my next two tests;
1) the light, downgrade the reflector for a couple of weeks. Its a cheap test to run, I don't have to spend any money.
2) ORP and Ozone, first part will be testing my ORP and then from there either purchasing a ozonier or not.

Any other steps anyone can suggest I try?

The XM 175W 15K does have sucky PAR so I think we might be onto something:

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.c...&Submit=Search

Try an Iwasaki 175W 15K, which has the best PAR out of any 175W bulb on an electronic ballast. For a magnetic ballast, go with the AB 13K.

For the record, XM bulbs vary widely in terms of PAR output. Their 15Ks generally suck regardless of wattage whereas the XM 250 10K is the PAR king.

[michika]

So I guess this begs the question about what to do now? Do I switch out the reflector and try to continue with my current bulb for a couple or weeks, or do I order a new bulb and try a new bulb with my luminarc reflector?

An update on the four pieces today;
Neon Green Digi - good; polyps out, lots of color on the side that isn't right under the reflector. Less color, and a burnt? tip on the side that is under the reflector. This frag is right on the cusp between being under the reflector and not.
Stag - Still looking bleached on the coralites, no polyps
Acro - Looking more bleached now, and this time on the top. This coral is almost directly under the MH. Still no polyps out.
Cap - Looks a bit more bleached, no polyps.

When I go back and look at my previous SPS test batches I noticed two things; 1) I placed all my SPS on the sides of the tank, and I placed them very low. I never moved them, 2) My MH bulb at the time was much older coming to the end of its lifespan.

[fkshiu]

Green digis require probably the least amount of light of any SPS IME so perhaps this is why it's still doing OK.

I'd get a new Iwasaki 15K bulb and place a small SPS frag right under it as close as possible to the surface.

[fishoholic]

The only other thing I can think of that others haven't really mentioned is to try taking out the frogspawn. I had sps in a tank that had frogspawn (as well as many other corals) and the sps started bleaching and the flesh started to fall off. I moved the sps corals to another tank that only had zoos and gsp in it and the sps made a full recovery. I don't really know for sure if the frogspawn was fighting with the sps or not, but if you have another tank the frogspawn could go into, it would be easy to rule it out.

[michika]

Well the ORP thing is out for a bit longer. I got my mail and the box with the ORP monitor is well crushed. The monitor is cracked. I've called the company and they are dealing with it.

I'm afraid to put any SPS highter, I think they actually are getting burned by my MH. I just turned my lights on for a few minutes to feed my tank, and the way things are looking, it really looks like a burn. I wish I had a camera to post photos with right now.