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  #1  
Old 02-23-2007, 07:13 AM
Dennis-Pir Dennis-Pir is offline
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Default Baffles

If I have a 33g tank I am turning into my sump how high should my baffles be...?????

As per the overflow box.... ---


Ok well if I can paint you a picture I drilled my tank, (well I didn't a member on thsi site did) and its on the top right corner.. and I was going to build a 'overflow box' (I.e. a box against the corner that would measure 5X5 give or take.

So I am wondering if anything would drain out of this at all, as the 'lip' or teeth of the overflow box will be quite near the top....


Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I've checked many sites such as "melv's reef" etc... =)

just wondering if anyone has pictures of a sump they made or anything like that as well

I.e. How high from the top, how high from the bottom, how many, how far apart.. etc...

I have seen sites such as melvsreef but these are pretty much from scratch and I am not going from scratch rather using an existing 33g tank..

Dimensions of tank are as follows
36 x 12 x 8.5
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Last edited by Dennis-Pir; 02-23-2007 at 05:37 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-24-2007, 05:07 AM
Borderjumper Borderjumper is offline
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Default sump

We made one last weekend from a 33 gallon tank. The dimensions of ours is
36x18x12. a stock off the shelf 33 gallon tank. Using my volume calculator your tank with the dimensions you stated is only 16 gallons. Using the plans off of melv's we split it roughly into 3rds. I dont remember exactly but the widths of the 3 chambers are apx., intake 10", the return 12" and the refugium is 14". The highest baffle is the refugium and we made that 15" including the "teeth". We made 3 baffles for the intake to dissapate bubbles. 1st is 13" high and goes to the bottom. The next is raised an inch or so up off the bottom and is 14"high, then the next is the same as the first. It seems to work very well. We run the return area ( one with the return pump) about 8"
deep. You want to leave enough space that in the event of a pump or power failure the water from you display has a place to go ( instead of the floor) until the syphen breaks. We used Mastercraft window and door silicone from Crappy Tire.. (it says right on it aquirum safe) on the baffles. It worked just fine...I took pic's but I havent downloaded them yet.
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Old 02-24-2007, 05:32 AM
Borderjumper Borderjumper is offline
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we havent hooked the skimmer up yet. It goes in the first chamber.
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Old 02-24-2007, 03:52 PM
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Nice sump Borderjumper. That is pretty much the same design I have been considering. Are the baffles glass or acrylic? I know that silicone does not bond acrylic to glass as well as using all glass but acrylic is much easier to cut for a DIYer. I have been trying to decide whether to use glass or acrylic for the baffles. I hope I am not high jacking the original thread but just wanted to ask about the pros and cons of glass versus acrylic baffles when using a glass aquarium for the sump.
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:20 PM
Borderjumper Borderjumper is offline
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We used acrylic. Its cut so it fits fairly tight. I would never try to make an all acrylic tank with silicone, as Ive read it doesnt bond well to acrylic. For this use it worked just fine. Notice we siliconed along both sides of the baffles.. so even if for some reason the bond failed on the plexy.. the silicone bead on the glass would still hold the baffle in place. You have to get pretty creative siliconing the center baffle on the bubble trap. We used a long chop-stick to get the silicone down in there.

The plexi was about 40$. That was for the 4 pieces cut to the correct size. We made the "teeth" on the refugium baffle. This was a PITA. Im sure it would spill over just fine without the teeth.
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:44 PM
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One more question for you Borderjumper. What did you use to cut the acrylic? I will be using a table saw so I need some kind of 10 inch blade. I have done a search on this web site and others and most recommend using an acrylic or plastic cutting blade. I will not be doing enough acrylic cutting to justify spending $60.00 to $100.00 on a blade so I was wondering if a standard wood blade with fairly fine teeth would work?
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:52 PM
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ive used a band saw with fine teeth and a table saw with fine teeth with success.
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Old 02-26-2007, 08:38 PM
Borderjumper Borderjumper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palster View Post
One more question for you Borderjumper. What did you use to cut the acrylic? I will be using a table saw so I need some kind of 10 inch blade. I have done a search on this web site and others and most recommend using an acrylic or plastic cutting blade. I will not be doing enough acrylic cutting to justify spending $60.00 to $100.00 on a blade so I was wondering if a standard wood blade with fairly fine teeth would work?

We had the pieces cut to size at the place we bought the acrylic. Make sure when you measure you take into account the thickness of the glass if you measure from the outside. Its a royal pain to have to cut down an 1/4of an inch on 4 pieces of acrylic.

A tablesaw will work..we used the blade that was on there..
EYE PROTECTION!
dont expect an exact cut and there will be some chipping.
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:57 AM
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Thanks for the info. I picked up a 200 tooth 10" blade at Home Depot. The blade is for OSB and plywood but it also says it can be used to cut plastics and the best part is it was only 16 bucks plus tax. I am going to try cutting the acrylic with this blade on my table saw in the next few days when I have some free time.
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Old 02-27-2007, 01:45 AM
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It should work ok.. my husband cussed the whole time he was sawing ours Wear long sleeves as it throws out tiny shards of SHARP shards. And protect your eyes. Lemme know how it goes. Cheers.. Shelley
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