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#1
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![]() First picture of the new setup.
Some details: - 115g cube (30"x30"x30") - single 250W DE pendent, 14k lamp - tunze 6100 with singlecontroller for flow - Rio svt something-or-other for sump return (I don't remember anymore ![]() - dual overflows, with a T off to feed a ASM G3 mod'd for recirc - About 60lbs of rock, 60 lbs of sand. - Have had the ritteri anemone for nearly 5 years now. ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#2
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![]() Looks great Tony.
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Mike 150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made. Reefkeeper - individual obsessed with placing disturbing amounts of electricity and seawater in close proximity for the purpose of maintaining live coral reef organisms. |
#3
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![]() Eventually. I had a pair of ocellaris in there that were displaced when the anemone was moved. They moved into a carpet for now and I kind of like it better with them in there instead -- they can be seen now whereas before they were the incredible invisible fish. I'm thinking a pair of akindynos or chrysopterus would be nice in this setup -- but I'm not sure how hard it is to find any of those.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#4
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![]() Looks great Tony!
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#5
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![]() Well this may end up being the shortest lived tank setup I've ever had.
![]() I'm not sure if this is a scratch that I hadn't noticed before, or if it's a crack that has appeared today. It runs 3/4 the length of the tank smack in the centre of the rear panel. I can't get a close enough look at it. I cannot feel anything with my finger. Where I've circled the line, there is a discontinuity that makes me *very* concerned that this is a crack and not a scratch. I don't know what to do. ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Could you please post a pic of the T and plumbing into the skimmerand maybe one of the mod to the ASM... as I am thinking of doing the same. My only worrie about this mod is I will only have one 1 1/2" bulkhead in the overflow returning ~ 1000GPH. Thanks, Dan EDIT just saw the above post... hope its a scratch ![]() Last edited by vanreefer; 12-27-2005 at 03:25 AM. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#8
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![]() After looking at it a lot tonight, I think it -might- be just one heck of a scratch. I'm flummoxed I haven't noticed it before, I think it's from transporting the tank over to my place back in September; you'd think one would have noticed it a bit sooner!!
![]() At any rate it's something I'm watching very carefully to see if it changes. I can feel a bump on the outside of the tank but nothing on the inside which makes me think it's a scratch. It's just the way it catches the light that makes me really nervous. ... Vanreefer, here's a picture of the sump. It's a bit tight in there so hard to photograph to show it clearly, sorry about that. ![]() The back pipe with the grey unions is the sump return. The overflows bend around the sump return pipe. In front of the white unions there are T's that connect the overflows into a single line (which just joins the two), that has a T in the centre, into a line which goes down and feeds the skimmer. The big lines continue onwards to carry the excess flow to the sump (since there is too much flow through the overflows to feed the skimmer 100%, it overwhelms the skimmer and causes a flood). The ball valves are there to put a little backpressure in the overflow lines to make sure enough flow feeds the skimmer (water will take the path of least resistance, without the ball valves there would be not enough pressure to feed the skimmer). The skimmer has the gate valve mod on it. The yellow line is just a 1/4" water line that I can use to drip-acclimate future tank inhabitants. The webpage asmskimmer.com (not ASM's website, just a reseller) details how to do the recirc mod and the gate valve mod. Neither modification is tricky, although the hardest part (for me anyhow) was sourcing the additional uniseals. I couldn't find any local supplier for these so I ordered them from that website (and probably paid way too much as a result, but beggars can't be choosers). The ritteri puts an enormous amount of nitrates into the water column, so I'm hoping the mods will help with that. The tank has only been running like this for a few weeks, so I can't really tell you if it's worth the effort yet to make these mods, although the theory behind them seems sound, so it should be good. Or so I hope. I hope my explanations make sense; let me know if there's anything I can try to explain better.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Delphinus; 12-27-2005 at 06:40 AM. |
#9
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![]() i agree, even when i look at the picture, it looks like a scratch because at the end of it, it fades out. if it was a crack, it would just stop.
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120 Gallon Reef With 2 overflows and 35 Gallon Sump. Mag 18 on the Return. Lit by Aqua Light Pro Deluxe. Super Reef Octopus 2000 Skimmer. 81 # LR 28 Gallon Top Down Display Mixed Reef. Radios Pro With TIR Lens Kit |
#10
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![]() Any more pics of the setup? Looks great so far!
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97 Gallon Cube |