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#11
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![]() surley it's easier to just have a sump that can take to volume of water from the plumbing and overflow no? nothing to clean and no worries about floods.
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Given sufficient thrust pigs will fly just fine. 90 Gallon LPS tank - Challice, Acans, Favia, Diplo and Zoos 125 Gallon SPS Coming Soon! |
#12
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![]() Tried a check valve once...it sounded horrible.
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#13
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![]() Quote:
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#14
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![]() Precisely. This whole question came up when I decided that I want water flow through the bottom portion of the tank (and have a pump but not a powerhead). As it is now, my 33 will take the drainage if a failure should happen, but 90 gal of water rarely fits in a 33. I like the idea of the hole drilled just below the surface... not sure how I didn't think of that as that is how I have my other return line set up... but that should solve my problem... thanks all!!!
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-Murdoch 160 gallon Reef, almost all SPS, a few LPS, small handfull of Zoas, and 5 clams. LOVING the upgrade (now that most of the work is done!) My tank Journal: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=75924 |
#15
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![]() Another idea to consider for low lying outputs, is to go closed loop instead of via sump return...
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#16
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![]() Thats the way i will be going on my next tank. Less flow through the sump more flow in the tank. ![]() |
#17
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![]() Call this a stupid question if you will... but what is meant by cloesed loop? An inline pump? If so.. I already have a submersable... and budget is the key word today... so....
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-Murdoch 160 gallon Reef, almost all SPS, a few LPS, small handfull of Zoas, and 5 clams. LOVING the upgrade (now that most of the work is done!) My tank Journal: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=75924 |
#18
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![]() For a closed loop you would need a seperate pump.
The pump pulls the water out of the tank where ever you put the intake line and puts it back into the tank where ever you put the return line(s). There is no worry of it overflowing your sump because it doesn't go there. Tank -> Pump -> Back to Tank Its a great way to get more flow in your tank without having all sorts of powerheads to clutter it up. You can also drill the bottom of your tank and hide the return line(s) among rock piles or whatnot. HTH |
#19
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![]() Quote:
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#20
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![]() Don't think that a closed loop guarantees you can plump low and not have your tank drain. At least I would not build my tank that way. Ever had a pump lose a seal or malfunction, I have. On a closed loop with low plumbing I would have drained my entire tank to the floor. IMO it is just a risk having the plumping to low. On my new tank it is drilled high on the back and returns and outlets take a 90 degree bend downwards to what level I want. At the 90 I have the small little holes drilled to break the siphon. I never want to see 340g. on my floor. (knocking on wood)
Dave |