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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 hey, 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			i'm trying to figure out how to plumb my calcium reactor input/feed (1/4") from my sump return manifold (1" pvc) - I gather I need some type of reducer to get down to 1/4" - a 1/4" quick connect valve (to control the flow rate) the 1/4" valve is easy enough, HD carries the JG type quick connect ones. but is there such a thing as a 1"pvc to 1/4" quick connect reducer? thanks. 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 I went 1 inch to 3/4 inch reducer, then from the 3/4 inch reducer put gate valve to accurately control flow. Put a 3/4 to 1/2 inch adapter off that and then threaded one of the 1/4 inch quick connect valves into that. Get it got it good 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			  If I get energetic I can take a picture 
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	360 gallon sps reef, 180 gal sump, bubble king supermarine 300, 4xmp40Wes, 2 x 6215 tunze waveboxes, 4 ghl mitras 360 Reef Tank  | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 Try to find a fitting called a 'bushing'.  Not sure if HD has them, but most plumbing suppliers should (like Noble, {Lougheed at Blue Mtn}).  
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
	Mark has one in his picture just before the valve. They take up far less room than a few reducers in line. Don't think they make a 1" to 1/4", but you could go 1" to 1/2" and 1/2" to 1/4" fer sure.  | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 I tried doing this same thing run my ca reactor with my return I only used the 1/4 jg valve to controll flow. It did not work just no control either to fast or too slow flow I would assume the larger valve would help with that issue. By the way it sure looks like  a ball valve not gate. I run mine off a syphon now works good for me more control it still not perfect Peristaltic pump is idea but more money. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 Thanks for all the suggestions and tips. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			I'll try make it out to a plumbing store soon. Thinking, put in a bushing, gate valve, another bushing down to 1/4" and then a JG type connector... 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 I used bushings and had a JG fitting that screwed into the bushing. Worked fine for years. The JG ball valves are not the best for fine adjustments. I used to run my reactor wide open so it wasn't an issue. Now I don't run a reactor and I sleep better at night...  LoL. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			Cheers, Tim 
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	www.oceanfreshaquarium.com/foz-down.html - Foz Down - an easy way to eliminate algae outbreaks caused by Phosphate and bring back the fun of reef keeping.  | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 the only issue is by using a ball valve you don't have a very good adjustability as its oening is not linear, try find a "flow controle valve"  which idealy would be a needle valve or in worst case a diaphram or gate valve (last two not really flow control valves but still better than using  aball valve) 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			Steve 
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	 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.  | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 Ok so I used a bushing to drop to 1/2" 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			Then threaded in a 1/2 to 1/4" quick connect Now all I need is the valve... I have a JG ball valve, but from all the input here, looks like what I need is a needle valve. Now I've sourced out some, but all from the US. And these things aren't cheap! $20-25USD +shipping... Any ideas for a local source? I'll call Sheret tomorrow. 
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			#10  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 I use a JG ball valve, no issues at all. Output from the reactor is controlled via an irrigation drip valve, and that provides more than enough control. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
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	Brad  | 
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