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#21
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![]() Quote:
http://www.licensedelectrician.com/S...ire_Python.htm |
#22
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![]() You can also change a standard single pole breaker to a double pole if the box is full.
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#23
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![]() Also if your going to pull a new circuit pull a 20amp, so you can have more juice on it. The cost of the wire and breaker to upsize is minimal.
The above breaker will come in a 15amp-20amp combo if that is the route you go. |
#24
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![]() Quote:
Be sure to also install a 20 amp receptacle (or two/however many) and if this is a permanent job and you plan on doing it yourself I would advise you also pull a permit and get it inspected. Even though it's an easy job and the inspection is rather redundant it may serve you well later if you ever sell your house as any home inspector will question the existence of a 20amp receptacle in a basement and advise the potential buyers to trace back for permits. |
#25
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![]() Quote:
Tripping the breaker is a warning shot across the bow (pardon the navy jargon from an air force guy). That circuit with 4x250 watt (1000 watts right there) including whatever else is on it (more lights or perhaps even other devices, good idea to confirm) will be heating up the wiring a fair bit even if it doesn't trip the breaker. A 15 amp circuit will handle about 1800 watts max, 1500 watts reasonably safely. Why risk running a circuit near it's max? It's a safety hazard, no time to be worrying about how a heavy duty extension cord will look. If you wish to run a big tank with plenty of power requirements, you need to ensure you have the necessary circuitry in place.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#26
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![]() thanks for your input guys.
heres the solultion i went with. having my T5s on from 330- 10 and having my halides turn on in sequensial order starting at 4 (when i get home from work) so at any given point there is only 2 metal halides on at a time. |
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