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#11
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![]() The tank is already assembled so I'm stuck with what I have right now. i wanted to be able to get my arm in there just in case I need to catch a fish or loosen some plumbing or whatever.
I just did the math. if I go coast to coast I go from 112 gallons to 91. Not worth it IMO. I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it back to have the heavier glass put on.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#12
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![]() Danny, I built an outside overflow for my 60, I went with 1/4 inch glass, and did it 3 inches wide, next time I'd go at least 6 inches wide to make it easier to put my hand in. I simply cut the top of the tank with a 3/4 inch lip, the water flows over the top into the box and I have TWO down tubes going into my sump. It works nicely doesn't take away from the tank capacity and allows shrimp larvae to stay away from preditors. This does not address your desire for closed loop though.
Doug |
#13
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![]() How about siliconing on some glass plates behind the glass with larger holes drilled in them. It would (I assume) distribute any stress from the hole and support the glass of the main tank. I've repaired a number of small tanks by siliconing on a plate large enough to cover the crack and never had a leak however I haven't tried it on anything larger than a 33 gallon.
Doug |
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