Input needed.... read this......

[Bryan]

Excellent, do you plan on posting a schematic.

For ideas on the wasvemaker, you may want to have a look at http://www.globaldialog.com/~jrice/diy/wavemaker.htm

It is NOT based on the usual 555 circuitry most wavemakers rely on. This design allows dead time between switching powerheads.

-=Bryan=-

[Reefmaster]

hey guys. the first thought i have is how well the glass, especially bigger tanks, will do with the differential expansion/contraction associated with heating or cooling with this sort of system. i wonder if 1. how efficient it would be, 2. if you could crack the glass with it.

as for controllers, i have been searching for people who know lots about data aquasition systems using a pc and interface. they are available out of the states, but very pricey. i read about a guy who wrote the code and used a 486 for the controller through rs232. i've looked at x10 but it seems a bit clunky to me. i'm more interested in rj45 through plc to completely automate the system, everything down to the r.o. coming on to fill the mixing bin, solenoids for dumping waste water and then pumping fresh mixed water into the system. that on top of lights, pumps, temp control including shutting off lamps in overheat, turning on fans, chiller, etc. anyone with this sort of idea in mind as well would kick ass. otherwise i'll keep up the search. shane

[DJ88]

Bryan,

Neat link.. I haven't drwan up the schematics yet. Still figuring it out as there are so many different parts/areas with the controller I am hoping to build.. Working on it tho..

Reefmaster,

I was wondering about that as well but was thinking that with a good heat sink compound and that the glass will be in contact with teh water on the other side the main worry of the glass cracking is during the initial turn on or heating. Once it is keepng the water temp set it should be fine. But that is what I have figured out. due to the fact that the glass is in immediate contact with the peltier device and the water it shouldn't affect eh efficiency too much.. and as it stands now I don't plan on using this on any large tanks. after all my tank is a 33. For larger uses a larger peltier device is needed.. Mod II.. [img]images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]

[reefburnaby]

Hello Darren,

Thanks...

If you need any help, you can give me a call.

Incidently, it is possible to do it on one PIC. Something like a PIC 16F784 should do. BTW, I am building one as we speak.... [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

- Victor.

[ 08 November 2001: Message edited by: reefburnaby ]

[SuperFudge]

Ill be your first customer Darren!


Marc.

[Troy F]

Darren, I like the plan. I'd like something a little more simple. A temp controller that turned the heater off and fans on would be perfect. The lighting would be an added bonus. I'm looking at getting the Ranco as you know. I still haven't called my neighbour yet. Talk to you soon.

[StirCrazy]

Darren, I have seen peltier's used directly in water (water coolers for computers) could the peltier maby be placed in the tank/sump as a heater replacement? This would elimanate the concerns of cracking the glass and also make it much more eficient as glass does have a small insalation value.

Steve

[titus]

Memorandum

10001-1 (Administrator)

9 Nov 01

Darren

<u>Aquarist Tank Controller</u>

1) Great idea! I'm especially keen on the peltier idea. However, I've never seen one that says it can be submerged (in saltwater) though.

2) If you can, let's route the PCB on the computer and send the design to a fab house. This way, you can pretty much mass produce it and the rest of us can solder on the components ourself.

3) If it is going to involve a PIC (like Victor suggested), or any kind of microcontroller, we can post the routines up here for people to modify/download/etc.

4) I have a friend who supplies robotic parts (ie BASIC stamp, LCDs, etc). Let me know once you finalized your parts/ideas.

T.T.H. Cheung
Administrator
Canreef Aquatics Ltd.

[canadawest]

I would be concerned with stray voltage or even electric shock when one puts metal plates with electricity flowing through them into salt water.

Don't think the fish would be too happy about the buzz either.

And how big would these peltier plate be? Even on a 33gal tank they would have to produce quite a bit of heat to dissapate throughout the entire tank. I suspect this project would be not applicable to my 100gal tank?

Otherwise I also am fond of the idea and would be interested in a finished product.

[StirCrazy]

Hey Darren, ok I did some more checking into it and to make it work thee would have to be two peltier one in the water sending another medium to the other (which is outside the tank) althought this would be fairly simple to do in a sump or something.
The idea I had was using only one plate though.. if you use a baffle in the sump and place it befor a spill over so the water is always in contact with one side of the peltier it would work good. but I have found out that almost all peltier's use copper on one of there sides.. so guess any contact is out unless you can seal it with a conductive material.. if you are having a hard time seeing what I am talking about maby this pic I drew up will help.. no flames on the art work please [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] http://members.home.net/s.l.s/peltier.jpg
the Peltier is red and the water level is blue..

but if you want to see more ideas and stuff for them you can check out www.overclockers.com and other sites like that..

Steve

[ 09 November 2001: Message edited by: StirCrazy ]