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#1
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Nothing to panic over, but if you use a shut-off float valve on your RO holding tank ( as I do ) to shut off your system when the HT is full, this may apply to you ...
A few weeks ago I tested my HT water and found it to be a crazy 6PPM That's nearly my City Water value I washed out the drum (HT) and refilled it with a fresh run of 0 TDS from my RO only system. Since then I've topped it off a couple of times, so I've gone through approx 50g ? Doesn't matter I tested the water in the drum this last weekend and found 2-4 TDS, depending on how the probe was positioned. I think these inline ones are sensitive to us ( interference ). Anyway , WTfudge After some reading, and a bunch of PMs with 11purewater about Permeate Pumps, the cause and solution came about Turns out that, because I use a float valve to close my RO water to the drum when it's full, the back-pressure on the Membrane kinda overwhelms it's ability to give me 0 TDS What's happening is not really important. How it happens is As the valve starts to close, it puts back-pressure on the Membrane and the TDS starts to climb However long it takes for the valve to close is beyond me as I'm never around when it happens Also, I have no idea what the TDS is when it's finally closed But, I can tell you it must be very high. High enough to turn 45 gallons of 0 TDS RO water into 3-4 TDS crap To confirm this, I ran a simple test tonight ( Thanks for the idea Andy I have an inline shut-off ( manual ) valve to my drum, and a Tee with another valve ( also manual ) that goes down the drain I ran the system down the drain until I had 0 TDS. Then I opened the inline valve to the drum and closed the valve to the drain Now the drum is being filled with 0 TDS RO water Next, to simulate the float valve closing, I started closing the inline valve a bit at a time and, once it started to drip 4-6 drops/second, the TDS coming out of my Membrane started to climb Who knows what kind of TDS I've been getting before the float valve in the drum is fully closed, but, as I stated above, it has to be HUGE to turn 45 gallons of 0 TDS RO water into junk Suffice it to say I am going to revamp my system I'll start by removing the float-shutoff valve and let the excess RO go down the drain until I shut off the water supply manually In the near future I'll come up with a better way to turn off the system once the drum is full, but at least for now I found out where my TDS is coming from And before someone jumps in and tells me to use a DI canister ... I don't need one for my city water, so I'm not adding one just to solve this issue |
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#2
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I've read before that RO systems really don't like the on/off cycle and do much better if you can do larger batches at atime rather then a litre here and a litre there.
I fill my top off container once every week and a half. A little more labour intensive, but I feel it's better for the RO membrane and better for my piece of mind as there's only a finite supply of water that could go into my tank if there's a malfunction. |
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#3
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i think big batches is a better way to go also i just use my float as a back up if i forget to turn it off
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#4
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Just to clarify ...
I don't leave the system running When the drum gets low I purge the TDS creep, fill the drum, turn off the inline valve to keep the membrane pressurized, and then turn off the water supply |
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#5
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Quote:
Calgary water standard is between 156- 299ppm, I don't believe we are getting anything close to zero out of our units. As people have run successful tanks with Calgary water I don't think 6ppm of TDS is going to hurt you at all. |
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#6
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#7
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But thank you for the explanation as it now tells me why my RO water is testing higher in my containers.
__________________
So many ideas, so little money! |
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
My 180 GL Reef Tank http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81842 My 55 GL Reef Tank - shut down http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=87764 |
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#9
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I usually make my water in large batches. I always flush my RO membrane until the TDS reaches 0. Usually about 3-4 mins.
I have a 10 gallon ATO tank and a 25 or 30 gallon ish brute container for salt. I've always thought about using an electronic shutoff valve at the inlet and use my apex with a float valve to turn on or off. That way the pressure through the RO membrane remains fairly constant. This option would work for you or get a DI. I don't think I've changed my DI resin for at least 6 buckets of salt and a year's worth of ATO. In the end you'll probably end up paying the same amount of money. |
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#10
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I've gone through 2 RO pre-filters since the floods began, and I've only done a single 50 gallon water change. 3 TDS is what I aim for considering the input.
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