![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Nothing to panic over, but if you use a shut-off float valve on your RO holding tank ( as I do ) to shut off your system when the HT is full, this may apply to you ...
A few weeks ago I tested my HT water and found it to be a crazy 6PPM ![]() ![]() That's nearly my City Water value I washed out the drum (HT) and refilled it with a fresh run of 0 TDS from my RO only system. Since then I've topped it off a couple of times, so I've gone through approx 50g ? Doesn't matter I tested the water in the drum this last weekend and found 2-4 TDS, depending on how the probe was positioned. I think these inline ones are sensitive to us ( interference ). Anyway , WTfudge ![]() After some reading, and a bunch of PMs with 11purewater about Permeate Pumps, the cause and solution came about Turns out that, because I use a float valve to close my RO water to the drum when it's full, the back-pressure on the Membrane kinda overwhelms it's ability to give me 0 TDS What's happening is not really important. How it happens is As the valve starts to close, it puts back-pressure on the Membrane and the TDS starts to climb However long it takes for the valve to close is beyond me as I'm never around when it happens Also, I have no idea what the TDS is when it's finally closed But, I can tell you it must be very high. High enough to turn 45 gallons of 0 TDS RO water into 3-4 TDS crap ![]() To confirm this, I ran a simple test tonight ( Thanks for the idea Andy ![]() I have an inline shut-off ( manual ) valve to my drum, and a Tee with another valve ( also manual ) that goes down the drain I ran the system down the drain until I had 0 TDS. Then I opened the inline valve to the drum and closed the valve to the drain Now the drum is being filled with 0 TDS RO water Next, to simulate the float valve closing, I started closing the inline valve a bit at a time and, once it started to drip 4-6 drops/second, the TDS coming out of my Membrane started to climb ![]() Who knows what kind of TDS I've been getting before the float valve in the drum is fully closed, but, as I stated above, it has to be HUGE to turn 45 gallons of 0 TDS RO water into junk Suffice it to say I am going to revamp my system I'll start by removing the float-shutoff valve and let the excess RO go down the drain until I shut off the water supply manually In the near future I'll come up with a better way to turn off the system once the drum is full, but at least for now I found out where my TDS is coming from And before someone jumps in and tells me to use a DI canister ... I don't need one for my city water, so I'm not adding one just to solve this issue ![]() |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I've read before that RO systems really don't like the on/off cycle and do much better if you can do larger batches at atime rather then a litre here and a litre there.
I fill my top off container once every week and a half. A little more labour intensive, but I feel it's better for the RO membrane and better for my piece of mind as there's only a finite supply of water that could go into my tank if there's a malfunction. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() i think big batches is a better way to go also i just use my float as a back up if i forget to turn it off
|
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Just to clarify ...
I don't leave the system running When the drum gets low I purge the TDS creep, fill the drum, turn off the inline valve to keep the membrane pressurized, and then turn off the water supply |
#5
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
Calgary water standard is between 156- 299ppm, I don't believe we are getting anything close to zero out of our units. As people have run successful tanks with Calgary water I don't think 6ppm of TDS is going to hurt you at all. |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
![]() |
#7
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() But thank you for the explanation as it now tells me why my RO water is testing higher in my containers.
__________________
So many ideas, so little money! |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
My 180 GL Reef Tank http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81842 My 55 GL Reef Tank - shut down http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=87764 |
#9
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I usually make my water in large batches. I always flush my RO membrane until the TDS reaches 0. Usually about 3-4 mins.
I have a 10 gallon ATO tank and a 25 or 30 gallon ish brute container for salt. I've always thought about using an electronic shutoff valve at the inlet and use my apex with a float valve to turn on or off. That way the pressure through the RO membrane remains fairly constant. This option would work for you or get a DI. I don't think I've changed my DI resin for at least 6 buckets of salt and a year's worth of ATO. In the end you'll probably end up paying the same amount of money. |
#10
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() I've gone through 2 RO pre-filters since the floods began, and I've only done a single 50 gallon water change. 3 TDS is what I aim for considering the input.
|