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#1
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![]() I am looking for input from seasoned users who have either check valves or drilled return lines.
I have read, and read, and read, for 5 months online. I've seen horror stories about check valves failing. I've also seen the same said about drilled holes due to snails and such. I have flow-tested my system, and am happy with it so far, but would like the option of placing my 3/4" loc-line nozzles either below the surface or just skimming. |
#2
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![]() I guess that there is danger either way. Blockages being the prime concern.
Personally, locline just below the surface is my choice.
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |
#3
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![]() Quote:
I'm looking for user responses with long-time experience. |
#4
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![]() Should I use a union check valve or not?
I don't want to drill my lines. What's your experience? |
#5
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![]() I've been using a check valve for a year and a half, no issues.
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Brad |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Whats the matter with his response? I have done my tanks that way for 40yrs. Never have I ever used a check valve. My returns have just been under the surface, with the sump holding any back flow. I also drilled a 1/8th. in. hole for back up but as mentioned, my systems would be fine without. I liked to drill them om an upwards angle so the water sprayed straight down. Also on the backside, where the piping came over the top. I found snails could not bother it as much when between the pipe and the glass with not much room. Only snail problem I have had was one the cover the hole partially and the water squirted in the air. That was corrected by the above angle and placement of the holes. Having the return just below the water line is still the best solution as was said. If its under far enough that back flow will flood the sump, {for whatever reason I,m not sure},then a check valve is the only solution. Although many have run them with great success, I have read many stories of floods from their failure.
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Doug Last edited by Doug; 04-08-2012 at 02:19 PM. |
#7
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![]() most check valve failures are due to the seals getting schmengy....I always recommend that people buy two and swap them out for cleaning......that and make sure that your sump can handle any back siphoning that may happen in a "worse case" scenario
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#8
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![]() Quote:
I guess I won't offer advice.
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![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#9
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![]() Just removed the union check valve yesterday and run the nozzle just below water surface. Reason for removing is every time I turn off and on the pump it making stupid noise.
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Wow! That's Crazy! Why would you spend that much and go through all that trouble? ![]() |
#10
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![]() I drilled 2 small holes just below the waterline on each of my locklines, have had no probs for over 2 years, cleaned them @ a month ago and all holes were still flowing.
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Crap happens, that's why they sell toilet paper in 48 roll packs! |