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View Poll Results: If you notice ich in quarantine, what do you do? | |||
Feed well, if fish is healthy after a while add to display |
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9 | 29.03% |
Treat with Hyposalinity |
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9 | 29.03% |
Treat with Cupramine |
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6 | 19.35% |
Other - State it as a comment below |
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7 | 22.58% |
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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![]() Ok. I would like to know what you guys are doing for quarantining new arrivals. I want to know if you guys think it is actually possible to keep a completely ich-free tank. My tank has been up and running for about 5 months now. It is a 125g display with fuge and sps/lps/zoos, a Crocea clam, etc. I have about 12 fish in the display right now. EVERY single fish that has entered the display has undergone Cupramine treatment and came out of quarantine Ich-Free. I Set up the tank with ALL brand new sand, 100 Lbs of never-used dry Macro rock. I seeded the tank with rock from a tank that ran fallow(with out fish) for 8 weeks. I dip all coal with Coral Revive by two little fishies before they hit the tank. I have never seen ich in the display but today I think I may see 4 or 5 dots on my blue tang. Now keep in mind I followed all precautions to prevent ich. The only way I could see it entering the tank would be on a frag plug? There are so many myths out there in forums that its almost impossible to get a hold on ich. I know it is possible to keep a completely ich-free tank, but I want to know how many people actually do it and how you do. There is no possible way to make absolute sure ich does not enter without TREATING-not just quarantining(our eyes may miss something) every single thing that enters your tank. Every LFS I have ever been too has at least one fish with Ich. It is clearly in all of there systems. Please let me know what your thoughts are and what your quarantining methods are. Also include how long your tank has been running the way it is and if periodically you notice ich present(cysts on fish or flashing every once in a while). I can't imagine everyone keeps this parasite out of there tanks.
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#2
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![]() It doesn't matter if ich is there or not. A healthy fish will not get attacked by it.
Just like the flu for humans. It's always around, if you keep your hands clean and keep your body healthy you're not likely to get it. |
#3
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![]() Oh boy... This will turn into trouble!
I do agree with MarkoD on this topic, but you will get many points of view. Just read and take from everyone what you wish to take. I myself have never quarantined, and have never had issues and can say I have only lost 2 fish to ich, and that was several years ago. However, what helps with my success is dealing with LFS with a good process for making sure fish are healthy before selling to the public.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#4
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![]() Ich is opportunistic as already been stated. Good water quality and health stock is the the prevention of Ich.
I quarantine my new stock more to insure the fish are truely healthy and to prevent other parasites/disease from entering my main display. |
#5
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![]() Ive only seen ich as a result of high stress... a move, a fight, bad water ect anything ive ever had could get it but wouldnt
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#6
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![]() Alright I understand there are many different views as to what ich is. I also realize it is basically impossible to keep out of your aquarium entirely. So I have a copperband and leapord wrasse in my quarantine right now. I noticed a few ich cysts on the copperband. A couple on his fins and one on his body. I have also seen him flashing a few times. If this was your quarantine would you:
A: Keep feeding them and keeping them healthy. In 6-8 weeks if they are healthy and the ich has subsided(fish has became more healthy and the ich has faded-not left the tank or fish per-say) - move them to the display. B: Treat with hyposalinity |
#7
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![]() As you can see, certain people are extremists and are not very flexible when communicating on these forums. As I stated prior, take everyones advice and hopefully you can decide how you wish to do things.
Always, remember have fun and play well with others! ![]()
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk Last edited by globaldesigns; 11-03-2011 at 04:39 PM. |
#8
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![]() I have tried both methods. I always wanted a blonde Naso tang. I tried 3 times and all 3 died in quarantine because they wouldn't eat (I did garlic and tried every food I could find)
Since then I have given up on qt. I have since then added a heniochus, copperband, purple tang and hippo tang. At first they all just picked at rocks but now eat frozen and pellet food. I am convinced if these fish didn't have food to pick at off the rocks Initially that they would have starved to death |
#9
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![]() Quote:
In one case, I had two copperbands in the same tank separated by an eggcrate divider, and I am convinced they taught each other to feed, sort of like monkey see, monkey do.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#10
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![]() in 7 or 8 years of reefing and maybe 10 different tanks I have never had Ich...
not once. Mostly have kept basslets though... |