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#1
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![]() I plan on installing an auto top-off system in my sump. I use well water so I plan on using a 1/4" line off my kitchen water line for a water source. This will likely run to a float valve in the sump. I have been looking at a Eshopps float valve (it looks fairly well made). Can anyone tell me how much pressure these float valves can handle? Any ideas to improve on my idea?
Thanks.
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75 Gal. display with 40 Gal sump - Dual 1.5" drains, Aragonite sugar sand substrate, SWC Extreme 250 Cone Protein Skimmer, 1800L return pump, 4 AI SOL LED Lights, 250 ml pellets in a recirculating bio-pellet reactor, BRS Doser pumps for Calc & Alk, Tunze Osmolator Auto Topoff system connected Vertex Puratek RO/DI. |
#2
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![]() Id look into some sort of safety. Something so that if that float switch fails or hangs up and decides to fill your tank with an endless supply of freshwater it will stop it.
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"I think were doomed." "Nah, unless they got any big, giant robot camels I think were ok." "Ah.....Jim.......robot camels" |
#4
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![]() I run from my water feed into my RO unit with an auto shutoff, then through a solenoid that opens 15 minutes every 3 hours, into a kent float valve. I wouldn't trust a float valve to hold house pressure long term. Without the solenoid, my float does let some water creep by.
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Brad |
#5
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![]() I just use a timer with a slow pump (toms aqualifter)
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#6
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![]() I would suggest using two electric float valves wired in series with one mounted slightly higher than the other in the sump. Run the float valves in series with a rainbird sprinkler solenoid valve and 24VAC transformer. The current draw on the valve is less than 1A so you don't need a relay. A couple bushings to reduce the 1/2" or 3/4" valve input and output to 1/4" will be needed. Run the transformer on a regular digital timer for added safety so it can only be activated to set amount of time. Whole system should run you around $80 to $100.
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