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  #1  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:58 PM
legendboy legendboy is offline
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Default My New 26g

I bought this setup from Binare a while ago. Just about ready to start it back up.

Tank is a 20x20x9 3/8" Starfire herbie over flow, 10g sump.

The only modification I have done is adding a Tunze nano skimmer and a partition in the sump for it.

Since Binare did not want to part with his reefkeeper, I am (for now) going to have the tank running manually and on timers. I do love the idea of having things as automated as possible. Will go back to a reefkeeper when it is in the budget.

Will have aprox. 21g of actual water volume

I will be running RowaPhos in the reactor

I have setup a water storage and mixing station in my basement

Using Aquavitro Salinity salt (using IO for the last year in other tank)

LS, LR and macro in the center compartment of the sump

Going with a tiled tank bottom, the same as MacheteAvenue. I love the idea of an easy to clean substrate. Love the look and functionality.

Anyways have a look and let me know if you see anything obvious I have overlooked or missed.

Plan to get water in this tank within a few days.

Thanks for looking!







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  #2  
Old 11-03-2010, 02:17 PM
legendboy legendboy is offline
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Alright, I have issues!

I filled the tank last night and no leaks.

Problem is where the tank is, the floor is not level. (sloped down towards the front of the tank) This normally wouldn't be a huge issue but this tanks water level normally sits about 0.25" from the top.

With the level issue the water sits right at the edge of the tank. This will not work. So i need to figure out a way to level it out. Thinking 2 small screw jacks underneath. (i used a car sissor jack temp last night)


Second problem is I am having a difficult time balancing the drain valve so the water levels are maintained in the overflow and sump. I probably screwed around with it for 2 hours and could not get it right.

Help! lol
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2010, 03:12 PM
legendboy legendboy is offline
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doing a bit of reading on RC

It seems I should have a 3 way valve or T with a valve on my return line, so i can bypass some of the return to fine tune the balance between the 2 tanks. (and dump the bypassed water back into the sump)

This sound like the way to go?
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:32 PM
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On my tank I used shimming stock from home Depot. You get it down by the windows and door section. I thought about using feet for adjustments as well but then there is a lot of weight put onto those screw points and they would fail eventually (my .02c)
Nice looking tank if I do another smaller tank I'm gonna try to copy it
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:22 PM
legendboy legendboy is offline
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I thought about using window and door cedar shims. I have some in the garage.

However due to the design of this stand, I can't.

The bottom of the stand has a hidden compartment for wiring etc..

The only place to use the shims would be underneath each side (.75" plywood) and would be visible when looking at the front of the tank.

I am going to try the screw jacks and see how it works out. Its a cheap and easy fix. Will post some pics tonight.


I am also going to change around my plumbing a bit too. And possibly replace the ball valve on my drain with a gate valve allowing finer adjustment. Add a return bypass using the valve going to my reactor.

I don't think it makes alot of sense to have that valve there since if I turn it off I will have to re balance the system...do not want

Last edited by legendboy; 11-03-2010 at 05:25 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:30 PM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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cool build.

the gate valve might fix the problem.. also try adjusting it then leaving it for a half hour to work out the air bubbles.
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