Adjusting Ph

Koresample · #1 08-05-2009, 05:59 AM

I just finished testing my water, and my Ph has dropped from 8.2 to 7.8. My calcium is 400, Mg is 1200 and dKh is 7. An, N02, N03 are all 0. What is the safest method of getting my Ph back up? I am using Randy Holmes Farely's formula for adjusting my Ca, Mg and dKh, but haven't had to dose in almost 4 months since i switched to DD salt.

whatcaneyedo · #2 08-05-2009, 07:23 AM

Boost your Alkalinity up with some baking soda and your pH will raise shortly after. Add only enough to increase it about 1 dkh at a time by using this calculator: http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

Also read this for a better understanding.
Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php

wickedfrags · #3 08-05-2009, 01:35 PM

IME, the vast majority of tanks do not have issues with pH. The rpH ange of 7.8-8.3 is acceptable for most marine life, and the lower range is not uncommon for those who use calcium reactors.

Rather than concerning yourself with correcting the pH reading you got, I would be more concerned with minimizing the fluctuation in pH (which occurs overnight when your lights are off). Do you have a small light on your HOB refugium on a reverse-daylight schedule?

Koresample · #4 08-05-2009, 05:38 PM

I have a light on my fuge that is on during the day (12 hrs on/12 hrs off). Are you saying that this should be reversed and have it on at night and off during the day?
I have kept a log book since starting the tank, and my Ph has been 7.8 now for over 2 months. Actually, since switching to DD salt as opposed to Instant Ocean, most of my parameters have been pretty stable with my Mg and Ca only fluctuating slightly (i do have a light load of Corals and inverts though).

wickedfrags · #5 08-05-2009, 05:41 PM

You bet - the light on the fuge should be on when the lights on the main tank are off to help stabilize pH, known as reverse-daylight lighting (to promote photosynthesis when the main lights are off).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koresample

I have a light on my fuge that is on during the day (12 hrs on/12 hrs off). Are you saying that this should be reversed and have it on at night and off during the day?
I have kept a log book since starting the tank, and my Ph has been 7.8 now for over 2 months. Actually, since switching to DD salt as opposed to Instant Ocean, most of my parameters have been pretty stable with my Mg and Ca only fluctuating slightly (i do have a light load of Corals and inverts though).

Myka · #6 08-06-2009, 01:17 AM

I agree with Wicked Frags, don't try to adjust it directly by altering alkalinity or using pH buffers. Another thing to consider is that having CO2 in the house will lower the pH of the tank. Same with not having a protein skimmer. Excess nutrients will also cause the pH to drop. Something as simple as adding an air pump in the sump will often do the trick if you don't have a skimmer. Your SeaClone is probably doing the trick by adding bubbles, although I question how effective it is at removing nutrients.

You can also take a peek for some more info on pH in the article I wrote (link in sig).

naesco · #7 08-06-2009, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koresample

I just finished testing my water, and my Ph has dropped from 8.2 to 7.8. My calcium is 400, Mg is 1200 and dKh is 7. An, N02, N03 are all 0. What is the safest method of getting my Ph back up? I am using Randy Holmes Farely's formula for adjusting my Ca, Mg and dKh, but haven't had to dose in almost 4 months since i switched to DD salt.

How often do you do a water change?
How old is the PH test?
Did you have low PH problems before you changed salts?
If you have a light load, are not overfeeding, do frequent water changes, use RO water, the problem is likely your Seaclone.
If you do all of the above the use of additives should not be necessary.

Koresample · #8 08-06-2009, 02:57 AM

i'm questioning my sea clown now...It produces about 1/4 cup of dark (like really steeped tea) skimmate every 2 weeks (currently use RO water from the store but i just ordered a 4 stage RO/DI from J&L). My Ph test kit is only 6 months old, I change 5 gallons out of 38 gallons every two weeks, have a koralia 2 and a nano for flow, plus the ac 110 and the flow from the skimmer. Lots of water movement inside the tank and the surface of the water is always moving quite well.

I am starting to get some hair algae...and just this afternoon i noticed one of my xenias is starting to look sickly (shriveling up). My yellow watchman goby dies yesterday (looked like he was having a seizure on the bottom of the tank and his eyes were completely black). I have cut back my feeding as i was probably overfeeding.

I read your article on algae Myka and have started ripping out the HA and blasting it with boiling water, are 5 gallon water changes every other day safe to do until the get the HA under control? I am guessing i should probably get a better skimmer to? I was thinking of a Tunze nano as they seem to generally get good feedback?? HELP

Koresample · #9 08-06-2009, 03:08 AM

One other thing i have noticed are these lumps on my LR that look like algae only they are yellow in colour and there are several large clusters of them in spots out of the light. My lights are only two months old as well, so that should be ok.