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#1
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![]() Hi,
I am looking to add RO/DI filter and an auto top-off. I kinda want to hook up the RO/DI directly to the sump with a float valve. So when water drops, the float valve opens to allow filtered water into the sump. But I have read some people advise against doing so because it may cause disaster if failed. Has anyone done such similar setup? Any advise is appreciated. |
#2
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![]() I'm doing direct using a humidifier float valve from HD and been trouble free for coming up 3 years. Yes, there's a risk but I balance against all the people that have had their basements flooded because their furnace humidifier failed, (personally I never have). Never cleaned the valve either as figure it's always being flushed by ro/di water.
Will also hear of TDS creep but can't say I've noticed solely due to my setup. My TDS will eventually rise after 6 months or more but figure just time to change the DI anyways. The only negative I have is the line from my ro/di Tees to the sump and also to a storage container. When filling up my container for making water, get a slight drop in the sump due evap (since the ATO is effectivly bypassed). Might drop a gallon in my 75g sump. ![]() |
#3
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![]() You can also put a 2nd float above the 1st and have it as a backup/failsafe so should your 1st float stick or fails in some manner, your water will still shut down.
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-captainhemo |
#4
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![]() Cool, I feel more assuring now.
The double float valve is a good idea. Has anyone had any bad experience on direct hook up from RO/DI to sump? |
#5
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![]() Quote:
If wanted something with more redundancy, could easily wire, in series, a whole bunch of float switches tied to solenoid valve. |
#6
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![]() Someone posted this awhile back, lots of good stuff
http://autotopoff.com/
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-captainhemo |
#7
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![]() hey I use a humidifier float valve with no problems
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http://www.photobucket.com/newbuthandy |