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#1
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![]() This is for my saltwater mixing rig, not my reef, so double-and-triple failsafes aren't so important.
I have an aqua-safe ro/di. It has an auto shutoff valve (a pressure solenoid?). If I tee off that to a routine float valve, is that sufficient? I'm reluctant to trust either a float valve or the aquasafe auto shutoff, but I've seen people post that technique... If I put in a solenoid, is a pressure-only or electrical solenoid preferred? |
#2
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![]() i REALLY wouldn't hook your RO/DI to your tank. hooking your tank to a continuous water supply can cause nasty problems if a float switch fails.
You could instead set up the RO/DI to a resevoir that holds say 10 gallons, then top off from the resevoir into the tank using something like a tunze osmolator or a JBJ auto top off. cuts your chance of problems down in half... if the JBJ/tunze top off fails you have only like 10 gallons dumped into the tank. if the RO/DI fails you have water all over the floor but your tank will be ok. I just make a bi-daily chore of hauling water to my tank's top off resevoir (JBJ auto top off).
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Everything I put in my tank is fully dependant on me. |
#3
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![]() I've been running my RO/DI with solenoid shutoff to a $10 Home Depot furnace humidifier for like 5 years now, or more, I can't remember when I first started doing it. The only time I really had an issue with a float valve was due to me trying to push kalk through it, it would clog up every few months and require soaking in vinegar overnight to get it to reopen.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#4
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![]() Quote:
Yeah, this isn't for my display, just a mixing station. I'll look at the Tunze/JBJ stuff if I ever get the nerve to auto top-off my main system. Last edited by Matt; 12-12-2007 at 09:55 PM. |
#5
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![]() This is the one I use:
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/s..._ID=ro-kpfshut Thing is, especially with a mixing station, you're not going to be filling it 24/7, only when you want it. So it's more of a "in case you forget to turn it off right away" thing. Fill the reservoir, let the float valve shut it off so it doesn't spill over, and then when you come check and see that you're done, turn off the water anyhow. I run float valves on all my tanks off a reservoir that I fill about every 2-3 weeks. The reservoir itself has a float valve and that kicks the RO/DI off using this solenoid when it's full. So I just turn the RO on, let it fill, next day I turn it off when it's done.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#6
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![]() Also just a passing thought .. those furnace humidifier float valves run on household pressure which can be anywhere from 60-100 psi. You don't hear of them of failing very often and when you do, you can usually trace it back to "improperly maintained and/or installed", ie. human error. The orifice that the water passes through is extremely small (less than 1mm) so it doesn't take much to hold back water through that hole. The flipside is that because the hole is so small, if there is any particulate in the water, or kalk, it will gum up very easily and then water can't pass though anyhow.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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#8
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![]() I found that the trick to keeping a safe level in my resevoir is to turn the pressure way down to a trickle so the valve can handle it. In my aquarium auto top-off there is no way to regulate the pressure so I have it on a timer in case the float switch sticks. (which does happen on occasion)
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![]() Greg |