Float Valve Problems

Todd · #1 05-25-2007, 06:36 AM

I am going away for a 10 days tommorow, and with the warmer temps I am going through alot of top up water, so I decided to hook the float valve in my sump right upto my RO/DI unit via 50 feet of water line, instead of the usual 5g reservoir it is usually hooked up to.

The problem is that the float valve doesn't seem to have a good enough seal on it to handle the higher pressure and 'leaks water' so that there is too much fresh water being put in.

The float valve is a Kent valve, and the RO/DI is the Aquasafe Maxis unit. I turned the pressurized reservoir on the RO/DI unit off, so that the only pressure is the pressure from the input.

Does anyone have any suggestions to stop the 'leaking'? I have checked all of the connections on the float valve and they are as tight as I can get them. I cant seem to take the valve off of the sump though, I wanted to do this to see if I could clean / tighten it.

I know that alot of people have their system plumbed into their RO/DI this way, how do they get it to work?

christyf5 · #2 05-25-2007, 03:05 PM

Ooh bad idea, IMO. This is a recipe for disaster as if the RODI can't shut off it can flood your system with RO water, nuking it. Can't you just fill a big garbage can and have that serve as your FW reservoir? Thats what I do when I go on vacation. Barring that you'd probably need a shutoff valve to shut down the RO unit when the reservoir is full.

wickedfrags · #3 05-25-2007, 03:55 PM

Do you just have the kent float valve (paddle) or the entire shut off kit which includes the pressure celenoid? Install the celenoid on the clean side of the RO membrance housing and go directly to the float valve.

Where does it leak from? Any pictures?

Snappy · #4 05-25-2007, 04:25 PM

I'd be careful of hooking it straight to the sump, heavy danger. I was having problems with my dosing pump in the res staying on because the float valve in the sump would stick so I put it on a timer and now no more flooding. Maybe you can use a bigger res for while you're away and impliment that type of idea. I just use a large garbage can for mine. If you can fill a larger res with enough water to last your vacation that is what I would do. It's worth the $15 at Crappy Tire to be safe.

Canadbis · #5 05-25-2007, 07:19 PM

I am interested to know more about the garbage can method. I am going away and am trying to figure out how to rig a top off system. What else is needed for the garbage can solution?
So far my Ideas are to cut the bottom off an 18L bottle of water and install a ball valve in some tubing so when the water level drops it opens the valve and tops up. but man am I scared to do that

Pescador · #6 05-25-2007, 08:33 PM

My RO/DI is hooked up to a 20g garbage can with a Kent float valve.
The float valve stays clean being in fresh water, if it were to stick you flood the can not your tank.
Then you can use your top up method of choice from the can to your tank. I've been using the Blue-line Tsunami AT-1 but there are others.

Snappy · #7 05-27-2007, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canadbis

I am interested to know more about the garbage can method. I am going away and am trying to figure out how to rig a top off system. What else is needed for the garbage can solution?
So far my Ideas are to cut the bottom off an 18L bottle of water and install a ball valve in some tubing so when the water level drops it opens the valve and tops up. but man am I scared to do that

I have my R/O fw going to the "garbage can" res. I keep the stored water aerated with a small air pump and air stones. I have a dosing pump connected to a timer(sometimes the sump's float valve sticks) and have it running to the sump to keep it topped up. You need to figure what the evap rate is and set it up to compensate. You are welcome to come over and take a look in person if that will help. It's a very simple set up.