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#1
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![]() Hi folks
I am in the process, slow process of designing my 120 gallon tank. I have ordered my glass drilling bits and I am going to attempt to make swiss cheese out of it. I have a few of questions I want to make a strong current in the tank, what is the best way to achieve maximum flow ? I am going to use a center overflow system How many 1.5 inch drain holes should I drill? What are you using for high flow return pumps? any recommendations? Thanks
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Stan |
#2
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![]() For my 190g closed loop I use a Sequence Hammerhead pump and run it through an Ocean Motions 4 way. Coming out of the OM I then split each return 2 times for a total of 8 returns. This delivers, IMO, very nice random flow patterns. I use version 3 of the OM valve. In addition to this I use 2 X Tunze 6200 on a controller but admit that it is a bit of overkill so I do dial these back to probably 75%. HTH
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#3
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![]() You don't want a high flow return pump as you will have a lot of noise issues with water splashing down the standpipe and through the sump.
Ideally you want a smaller return and larger pumps on closed loops or some high flow powerheads (Tunze or Seio).
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#4
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![]() I run a Sequence Barracuda on a closed loop on my 180, the Dart would probably be enough flow for you.
I run a manifold, I have 1" PVC all around my tank, then I have 7 t's that go down to 1/2" threaded, and have 1/2" locline coming off the t's. This is not random flow other than pointing some of the outlets towards eachother, but it is very adjustable to whatever I want. When I feed and can see the currents this setup makes, it is amazing. Ocean motions 4way would be even better of course, but pricey. So you will need 1, 1.5" intake for the closed loop pump, then however many holes you want for returning the water. For the drain holes, I would use the closed loop for the majority of circulation (or 2 large powerheds - Seio/Tunze streams) then the sump return would be fairly weak, say a mag 7 or 9. I would still drill 2 x 1.5" drains and put durso standpipes in them, this way 1 drain can fail/clog, and the other will still operate for you. The return line size, 1" is good enough if you use a weaker pump as I suggested. Have you made sure you can drill the bottom glass for your center overflow? |
#5
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![]() ![]() My design... advice when drilling through glass... make sure the chuck of the drill doesn't smash into the back of the tank when you are drilling... then make sure the place that cuts the replacement piece of glass cuts it to the correct dimensions or it will be 2 months since you got the tank and it still only has 3 sides GRRRRRRRRRR |
#6
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![]() Dano, got any larger images than that one?
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#7
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![]() [quote=vanreefer
My design... advice when drilling through glass... make sure the chuck of the drill doesn't smash into the back of the tank when you are drilling... then make sure the place that cuts the replacement piece of glass cuts it to the correct dimensions or it will be 2 months since you got the tank and it still only has 3 sides GRRRRRRRRRR[/QUOTE] Don't know if you can make it out The drain is a 1 1/2" bulkhead on the bottom of the tank the pump is mounted on the underside of the tank and it returns to the tank via the manifold on the back which has 1 1/2 split into 4 x 1" with ball valves to balance the flow if you want to pm me your email addy I could send you the image in a larger format Last edited by vanreefer; 02-23-2006 at 08:17 PM. |