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#1
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![]() for the last 4 weeks I have been getting readings of approx 15 of nitrates in my reef tank. the level has stayed constant. I pulled out some anthelia about 10 days ago...stunk really bad! I have a 3-4 inch live sand bed and a 10g refugium with another 3 inch live sand bed and assortment of caulerpa. Everything in the tank seems to be doing great...so I am a little perplexed as to why it has not dropped since I pulled out the Anthelia
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180g tank(6x2x2) w/170lbs LR, 2-250W 1-400W Halides, 2-3ft t5 Actinics,H&S 1260 200 Skimmer, 1-Tunze 6000stream w/controller, 1-6060stream, 70g sump, 30g refugium Neptune controller, Sequence Hammerhead inline return, Lifeguard 25W UV, 1-Tunze osmolator, 1-Tunze wavebox, 1/4Hp Pacific Coast chiller, MarineTech calcium reactor |
#2
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![]() I would do a water change to get the nitrate down, then let the calurpa do the rest. Levels like that shouldnt kill any fish so you dont have to go crazy, but a water change of 25 percent would help.
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Sean ![]() Back in the good ole days ![]() |
#3
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![]() I figure that if a 25% should work...it should at least tell me if the anthelia were the only issue. All my other readings are excellent and my porites, anchor, cup coral, and others are growing like mad
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180g tank(6x2x2) w/170lbs LR, 2-250W 1-400W Halides, 2-3ft t5 Actinics,H&S 1260 200 Skimmer, 1-Tunze 6000stream w/controller, 1-6060stream, 70g sump, 30g refugium Neptune controller, Sequence Hammerhead inline return, Lifeguard 25W UV, 1-Tunze osmolator, 1-Tunze wavebox, 1/4Hp Pacific Coast chiller, MarineTech calcium reactor |
#4
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![]() If you have 15 ppm nitrate, a 25% water change will only bring your nitrates down by about 4 ppm, leaving you with 11 ppm nitrate.
If this was my tank, I would do a series of 30% water changes over the course of a week to bring nitrates closer to 0 pmm. Then, every week I would do at least 15% water changes. If there is any mechanical filtration in this tank, I would also thoroughly clean the filter media in the weekly outgoing changewater. Doing so will remove any crud buildup, which is a source of nitrate and phosphate. I would also test for alkalinity, calcium and magnesium every other week and balance these three important reef chemistry components. Here are some links explaining reef chemistry and how to find the right balance for your tank: Aquarium System Volume Calculator: http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/volcalc.html The Reef Chemistry Calculator: http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chem_calc3.html Reef Aquarium Water Parameters: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm Magnesium in Reef Aquaria: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm Solving Calcium and Alkalinity Problems: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm |
#5
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![]() thanks for the info...I was going to do another 30 g change tomorrow...all other test are great..Ca at 450,PH @8.2, PO4 at o etc..Im hoping that my refugium will start helping bring it down as well
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180g tank(6x2x2) w/170lbs LR, 2-250W 1-400W Halides, 2-3ft t5 Actinics,H&S 1260 200 Skimmer, 1-Tunze 6000stream w/controller, 1-6060stream, 70g sump, 30g refugium Neptune controller, Sequence Hammerhead inline return, Lifeguard 25W UV, 1-Tunze osmolator, 1-Tunze wavebox, 1/4Hp Pacific Coast chiller, MarineTech calcium reactor |
#6
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![]() I would work on tuning the skimmer to get better production. If you have problems adjusting the skimmer there is a Tunze forumon RC where you can ask for advice about it.
I don't think the Anthelia is the cause of the increased nitrates but the result. The Anthelia serves as a nutrient sink. |