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#1
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![]() Does anybody own one of these:
http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/vt...+-+100GPD.html And if so, is it worth the extra money as opposed to a slightly cheaper one without the vertex name? |
#2
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![]() i bought a seven stage aquasafe for under $200 delivered off ebay with a three year supply of filters and a tds meter.if i would have gone to the company in west vancouver it would have cost me $80 more.a lot of the price is probably for the name
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#3
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![]() 0 TDS water is 0 TDS water; brand got nothing to do with it. If a $100 unit produces 0 TDS water and a $300 unit produces 0 TDS water, there's no difference between the two output. Only thing that might be different is the rejection rate, the amount of waste and how often you have to change the filters. I found that in case of RODI, brand name doesn't matter, the output matters.
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#4
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![]() I did the same thing only difference was I bought from their website first and found out later about the lower eBay price. Guess what, Aquasafe credited me the difference. Great company, best deal around.
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"The Cavernous Reef" - 180g RC Build In-Progress: Miracles (72x24x24) 3-Sided Starphire; 2X exterior overflows; closed loop w Speedwave 1320; SRO 3000int; Speedwave 2640 return; Aquatronica controller with 3x dosing pumps; 2X Maxspect Razor 160w; 2X MP40wes, 2X MP20; 54" acrylic sump with ATS. Corner 90g Reef. |
#5
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![]() This one arrived today:
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#6
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![]() The one thing I really like is the booster pump.
If your home pressure is lower it helps a lot |
#7
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![]() I have had two units 1was a cheaper ro/di no booster pump no tds meter and none of the nice features this unit has ,when the filters prematurely exhausted because of the low water pressure ? ( I think) I bought a tds meter then looked at buying a booster pump and I would have ended up spending up around 200$ to upgrade ,I ended up buying the vertex unit instead of all the other stuff and I am so glad I did ,it just works so nice really it's just plug and play pretty much I wish I would have just bought it first I would have saved myself a bunch of money
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#8
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![]() Quote:
Most RO/DI systems are built with fairly generic components using the standard 10 inch canisters. It's nice to have the clear canisters for your pre filters to give a visual of their condition. Probably not needed for carbon stage. Most DI stages will have clear housing as well, so you can see the change in the colour changing DI media. However, the bottom line with DI, if you have a TDS meter, that's really your best indicator of when the DI media is exhausted. The white canisters are less costly & actually more robust than the clear ones. If you by a cheaper system, you will also more than likely not get the best carbon block. This is a fairly important stage because it protects your RO membrane from chlorine. Not all carbon blocks are created equal and it's worth it to spend a little extra there, for a good 0.5 micron that will treat 200,000 gallons. A little research on your source water TDS & house water pressure should help you in your decision as to what you need. Yes, 0 TDS is 0 TDS, but with an overkill unit you may be wasting money. You could also be disappointed with the results of a cheaper unit if you don't have the right components. If you have to change your membrane frequently because of a cheap carbon filter...... Personally I prefer 75 gpd membranes since they have a better rejection rate than a 100 gpd. My source water TDS is close to 200. If I lived in Vancouver where their source TDS is 10, a 100 gpd membrane would be a better buy since I could produce water slightly faster. Then again, I'm a patient person most of the time.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 09-12-2013 at 02:27 PM. |
#9
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![]() Wellllll... In a phonecall I had with a customer who orders 30+ of these things every month:
"I feel bad for people who wasted their money on other filters."
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This and that. |
#10
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![]() if you're ok with manually flushing your membrane (i do it before and after use) and prefer a more efficient ro membrane (75gpd dow filmtec is better than the 100gpd) I'd purchase any basic setup and fit it with the 75 gpd filmtec and a dual tds meter. i'm assuming your household pressure is already fine.
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