Over doing the RO/DI

Basile · #1 09-02-2013, 12:04 PM

I'm having trouble choosing a RO/DI unit, its not a money issue its a practicle issue. I see 3-4-5-6-7 stage unit now. And some 7 stage unit are cheaper that than a 4 stage unit. So i'm perplex as what use is a 7 stage can actually provide than a 4 can't. To me its seems a waste of filters or an unecessary expense. Any advice on whats really important and whats not, because i'm lost, lol. Thanks for your time.

scuba ken · #2 09-02-2013, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Basile

I'm having trouble choosing a RO/DI unit, its not a money issue its a practicle issue. I see 3-4-5-6-7 stage unit now. And some 7 stage unit are cheaper that than a 4 stage unit. So i'm perplex as what use is a 7 stage can actually provide than a 4 can't. To me its seems a waste of filters or an unecessary expense. Any advice on whats really important and whats not, because i'm lost, lol. Thanks for your time.

7 all the way for me, more is better.

Mud beaver ?

Cal_stir · #3 09-02-2013, 01:26 PM

I run 10 stages, dual membranes, 1 poly and 2 carbons pre-filter, and a booster pump, makes water fast.
My water is 280 ppm out of the tap though, I would base my decision on what the water quality is in your area and whether your municipality is using chloramine as a disinfectant.

Basile · #4 09-02-2013, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scuba ken

7 all the way for me, more is better.

Mud beaver ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cal_stir

I run 10 stages, dual membranes, 1 poly and 2 carbons pre-filter, and a booster pump, makes water fast.
My water is 280 ppm out of the tap though, I would base my decision on what the water quality is in your area and whether your municipality is using chloramine as a disinfectant.

I think you've just hit the nail right on the head, water quality in regions. Are water quality in my region is very good, no extra salts, or metals, no gas, no pollutions of any kind. Minimal use of chlorine. So regular RO/DI should suffice. Right now i'm looking at a MaxCap 90GPD RODI w/ dual tds, ASO and membrane flush by Spectrapure and it seems to fullfill that role with plenty of stages and options and at $300 it aint cheap, lol!

Evilweevil · #5 09-02-2013, 01:58 PM

0 ppm is 0 ppm as stupid as that sounds its the same 0 out of a 4 stage as a 0 from a ten stage although the d/I resin will probably last long on a ten stage unit but in the long run those filters cost you money also ....

I have a puratek system and highly recommend it ,simple and comes with all the bells and whistles http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/vt...+-+100GPD.html

Cal_stir · #6 09-02-2013, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evilweevil

0 ppm is 0 ppm as stupid as that sounds its the same 0 out of a 4 stage as a 0 from a ten stage although the d/I resin will probably last long on a ten stage unit but in the long run those filters cost you money also ....

I have a puratek system and highly recommend it ,simple and comes with all the bells and whistles http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/vt...+-+100GPD.html

Stupid as it sounds I started with 5 stages and was changing filters every couple months and was making water slowly, by adding pre-filter and DI stages and an extra membrane and booster pump my filters last 6 months and I make water really fast which is more efficient, stupid as it sounds.

daplatapus · #7 09-02-2013, 02:27 PM

I have to agree with some of the above. If I had to buy another unit, knowing what I know now, I'd purchase a tds meter and test my water first, then decide what I need. I ended up buying a 4 stage with 2 stage DI unit thinking I should go big or go home. Turns out my city water comes in at 50-60 ppm. I'm reading 0 tds after my RO so my DI is pretty much useless.
Check what you have for tds first before you buy, would be my suggestion. Take into account too if where you live has a history of bad water I'm the spring and make your decision from there.

Basile · #8 09-03-2013, 01:23 AM

I was going to take max Cap spectrapure but the Vertex for $20 more as total automatic flush a booster pump and opperated by itself plug and watch is about it, so i'm going with that 100gph 4 stage.Thanks guys for your input.

gregzz4 · #9 09-03-2013, 01:53 AM

Basile, what's your tapwater TDS ?

mike31154 · #10 09-03-2013, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregzz4

Basile, what's your tapwater TDS ?

Yes, this & what's your water pressure? You may not need a booster pump. Why complicate matters? For less than $20 you should be able to score a water pressure gauge & handheld TDS meters are also available these days for about $10, usually in the recreational vehicle department of WalMerde or Crappy Tire. Do a little research on your source water before you buy & you can save money, keep things simple. More automation is not necessarily better. Keep in mind that every time you flush your membrane, water is still flowing through your carbon stage, so its chlorine removing capacity is being depleted at a faster rate. I'm still on my original membrane after over 4 years using a manual flush of a minute or so before & after production. Not a big chore.

Something I forgot to mention in my earlier post is that I've noticed after every flush cycle, the TDS out of the membrane creeps up several points until it settles in again. So frequent auto flushes are going to be hard on your DI stage.