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#1
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![]() I have a 90 gallon soft reef with 30 gallon mantis tank and 30 gallon ehopps sump.
IN SUMP:vertex280in skimmer 2x little fishes 550 reactor one with carbon changed once a week the The other with phosban changed every three days 2x8" sock filters then threw a sponge and finally threw bio balls to my Return pump MAIN TANK: 70ish lbs of live rock plus a live rubble bed 4 clown fish 2 tangs 2manderine gobies ,hawk fish and various soft coral MANTIS TANK: 1x 5" mantis shrimp 1x3" mantis a 10" carpet anemone,a maxi mini carpet and seabe anemone LIGHTING. Whites run 6hrs a day and actinics 12hrs 90gallon has 16xwhite and 16 blue 3w led chips,2x 54w 10000k t5 and 2x 54w t5 blue. Mantis has 2x96w purple ish blue actinics and 22000k 150w metal halide Why am I still gettin massive algea,is not hair algea ist all most like the algea my cichlid tank used to get
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They should have a sign on all fish stores reading"this hobbie is worse then heroin" maybe then I would have bin prepared for what was about to happen to my wallet. |
#2
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![]() consider ditching the bioballs(slowly).......they saturate extremely quickly and leech nitrates back into your system.....what do you feed and how often?.....how many and what kind of fish do you have?.....was the tank started with any dry rock....if so, how much?
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#3
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![]() dave ditch the phosban its no good for reducing phosphates its ok to keep them in check but i find they are not that strong.switch to rowaphos or someother type of ferris oxide
![]() as doug said ditch the bio balls. im betting alot of it is from frozen food or fresh seafood are you rinsing very well for frozen and fresh??? alot of that stuff is packed with oily stuff you dont want in your tank:P
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#4
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![]() Quote:
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They should have a sign on all fish stores reading"this hobbie is worse then heroin" maybe then I would have bin prepared for what was about to happen to my wallet. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
would def ditch the phosban,rowaphos is much more effective its alot pricier but also lasts alot longer. i also heard that phosban releases the phosphates back once its absorbed all it can, not sure if theres any truth to it or not but when i switched i stopped getting the "green dye" all over my coarse sand and rocks ![]()
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#6
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![]() It can leach them back in to the tank when it get full of w/e it releases it back to the system, that's why I use large amount of phosban and change it every 3 day to stop this from happing. But still algea grows wild
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They should have a sign on all fish stores reading"this hobbie is worse then heroin" maybe then I would have bin prepared for what was about to happen to my wallet. |
#7
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![]() 2 true percs 2 skunk clowns 2 manderane gobies green and blue ,yellow tang and a blue tang 2 peppermint shrimp 2 cleaner shrimp 2 fire shrimp a dozen Halloween hermits ,Sally light foot crab 2x huge green serpent star fish inmy sump they produce baby serpent stars so far only counted 5,2xmantis shrimp
The rest of live stalk is polyps zoas palys colts mushrooms and anemones
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They should have a sign on all fish stores reading"this hobbie is worse then heroin" maybe then I would have bin prepared for what was about to happen to my wallet. |
#8
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#9
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![]() Even the best dry rock will not denitrify very well, if at all, in the first few months or longer. Therefore the NO3 will build unless you do substantial water changes.
Also, if the dry rock is previously used live rock, it's likely a time bomb for phosphates. PO4 will accumulate in the rock, and any life in the rock once removed from water will die off, causing a dry reserve of nutrients that once wet, will leech back into the tank.
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Brad |
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