Grizz's 300 gal 8'er / LED Heat sink build / Opinions on LED lay out needed

[The Grizz]

So here is a concept design of the 300 gal 8'er that I am planning to start in Aug. Tank will be 96"L x 24"W x 30"D, 3/4" all around, euro-braced & starphire front. I am tossed between putting a wave maker on the left end or getting a couple MP 40's. No closed loop but I will be using my OM 4 Way on my 8 return lines. Also going to run my skimmer, 2 - MR1 reactors off my return pump, add in a ATO & WC system from my water room downstairs. Definitely going with LED for lighting and hope to have a 4 pump doser to go with my Profilux 2EX controller.

This is just the sub frame built out of 1 1/2" Hss for the stand & 1" for the rest of the cabinet which will be skinned with Burch & Oak.

So what do you think? Did I forget something or do you have any ideas for me.

Could not figure out how to upload this pic to photobucket from Google Sketchup so I just took a pic with my phone.

[intarsiabox]

That tank stand looks like it's made of wood. It looks like it'll be a great tank! I'd love to have my returns on lower levels of the tank yoo but I'm too chicken that a bulkhead would go and empty my tank on the floor. The rug could be replaced but parts of my body that my wife would remove could not.

[The Grizz]

First time using Google Sketchup, this took me several hours to put together. I don't build any stands or tank surrounds out of wood simply because wood rotts. If an exterior panel gets damaged it is easy to replace. The lower bulkheads will be at least 6" up from the bottom.

I should add, because it is hard to tell from the pic that there will be a coast to coast overflow along the top 6" x 6" draining down at the center through 2 - 1 1/2" Durso's.

[intarsiabox]

I still haven't made up my mind if I want 2 holes in my external overflow to drain or 3 holes to do a beananimal set up.

[kien]

[The Grizz]

Personally I find the Durso the best & my reasoning is simply because 1. it is the easiest to set with a simple air valve on the top of the 2. No gate or ball valves to fight with. 3. Less plumbing parts & pieces to leak.

I have done a Herbie, Gurgle Buster and Durso's. The 3 tanks I have running now all have Durso's, built the plumbing, filled the tanks, kicked in the return pump, spent less then 5 min adjusting the air valve & have never touch them since.

[The Grizz]

Originally Posted by kien

If you keep eating all that popcorn Kien your going to get fat & get high BP, hope it's low sodium & fat feel

[Slick Fork]

Cool. A coast to coast overflow will kill any wave you try to make so I wouldn't bother with the wavebox. With the OM and the right pump you could make a really kick ass PVC frame/manifold that supports your liverock structure and provides flow through the tank.

[bauder1986]

Can i operate the bobcat when we move this into your house this time Greg? or do I have to be you spotter again lol

[phi delt reefer]

Originally Posted by The Grizz

If you keep eating all that popcorn Kien your going to get fat & get high BP, hope it's low sodium & fat feel

LOL!



Should look awesome Grizz - your build quality has been nothing but spectacular in the past. Though if i could make a recommendation - try getting those laminate panels in black, red or white. Very modern ELOS look. You know that high gloss IKEA type finish? I dunno how it would fit with your decor but it would be sweet none the less.

also - instead of the coast to coast why not go with a penninsula style overflow on BOTH Sides and just cut a wier into the side pieces of glass. That way the over flows are out of view COMPLETELY and easily accessible. There would be enough surface skimming. You could do a return on one side and over flow on the other as another option.

so what is this...tank 46? or 47?