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#1
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![]() I am planning a 120 gallon (48" x 24" x 24") Starphire reef tank with only softies and LPS.
My tank has top trim, glass strapping on the edges and a 12" centre brace. ![]() ![]() I can remove the trim, strapping and brace in favour of euro-bracing, but it would mean a tremendous amount of work as this tank is very well-built. As an alternate option, would it work to place 150 MH pendants over the open 16" gaps and supplement with 10,000k T5 (x2) and Actinic T5 (x2)? I would rather not have to modify the tank if possible. Thanks, in advance, for your feedback! ![]() |
#2
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![]() Honestly you would be much better off removing all the top strips & euro brace the tank. It would be easier together into the tank.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#3
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![]() While I fully trust Grizz's opinion, does anyone else have thoughts to share?
Other lighting possibilities to share? I would love to go with Kessil A150w LED's but I would need 4 which is out of my wage bracket. ![]() |
#4
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![]() I'd go with Greg on this one. mostly cause he has taught me all I know and hasn't steered me wrong yet, you can glass brace a tank, but I wouldnt do it as you have sketched
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#5
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![]() Keep the glass brace fairly clean and you'll hardly notice a difference. You're keeping LPS and soft corals and you're using a halide fixture which I assume will center the halides over the openings so most of the lighting will go around the brace anyway. With what you have planned I see no reason to remove the brace, however if your plans change later down the road.....
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#6
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![]() id have to agree if your only doing lps and softies a glass brace wont hurt, many people run glass tops with no problems.
plus its good to have a small area with less light for corals that demand a little peace and quiet:P
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#7
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![]() Quote:
The other alternative is to go with your MH over the open area idea & simply work your aquascape so the corals will be primarily located there. You could have an open swimming space beneath the center brace that doesn't really require intense lighting. Pretty much the simplest, quickest solution. Or even a combo, with MH & two Kessils aimed under the center brace if that fits the budget. Here's an earlier photo of my LED DIY rails to show the inward tilt of the two outer rails. I've almost completed the fixture now & it's been over my tank for several days. Instead of the screw/wingnut mounting to adjust the tilt, I've simply cut 10 degree wedges to mount the outer rails into the frame, so not exactly like the photos, but should give you an idea. If your interested, there are plenty more photos & info in my LED DIY build thread, here's the link. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206 Finally, another solution similar to the Kessil idea would be to use PAR 38 spotlights. There are a number of folks that have used these successfully and although not cheap, they aren't quite as costly as the Kessils. All you'll need are the spotlights and a bunch of standard light sockets.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#8
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![]() Thanks for all of the great feedback!
Mike......you have definitely given me plenty to consider. Much appreciated. |
#9
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![]() 2 - 150w MH should be just fine with the brace as long as you can keep it clean. You might get a slight shadow but not enough to make a difference with LPS and Softies.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#10
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![]() I might have to take a stab at DIY LED.
What's the worst that could happen? ZAP! ![]() |