Algae ID?

Anybody know what this stuff is? (not the bubble algae- I know that's bad...the other green stuff) Should I be removing it?


While on topic...what about this hairy red algae, growing around the Zoa?


Thanks
PatD

[BlueTang<3]

Green is halimeda algae it is ok it can be easily removed tho but it wont take over and one removed it will be gone wont be a nuisance for you. I am not sure about the red

[SteveConn]

I think the green algae is halimeda algae. It uses calcium up a bit, when it dies, the calcium remains behind and slowly breaks down. I cant say how invasive it is personally.

[Myka]

Halimeda can actually be very invasive sprouting up all over the place. It is easy to remove, but getting every little bit is the difficult part, and every little bit will carry on growing. It is not something you want in the display tank. The red algae I can't see well enough to ID...is it easy or difficult to pull off the rock? Generally, if it isn't Coralline then it is a "bad" algae to have in the display tank. Most macroalgae even when introduced purposely (like Caulerpa or Halimenia, etc) can easily become invasive. Imo, unless you're aiming for a planted tank rather than a coral tank, the only algae allowed should be Coralline in the display and Chaeto in the sump.

From the photos is looks like your tank has a bit of a nutrient load. Manual removal followed by improved nutrient export would be your best long-term solution. This can be achieved by using a good quality skimmer (or upgrading current skimmer), growing Chaeto algae in the sump, algae scrubbers, removal of detritus during waterchanges, replacement of filter medias more often, use of GFO and/or carbon, gradual removal of any biofilters (like bioballs, biowheels, ceramic rings)...

[reefermadness]

Mindy nailed it. Any algae in the display other than coralline is a PITA. I have halimeda on one rock and every few months I have to go and and start pulling. No fish eats this stuff and it buries it's roots deep into the rock.

Thanks all for your insight. I have removed all algae as best as possible and will continue to monitor.
Myka (Mindy?)...thank you especially for taking the time to provide your advice. I so appreciate it.
In tests, my water seems to show good results, except for slightly low calcium and Kh...but I do see detritus build up on some of my rock and I have started to see a good deal of algae growth (besides what I photo'd)
My skimmer pulls a lot of skimmate but I am running an RSM 250 and with no under tank sump - so I am restricted to a nano skimmer (I use a Nano Reed Systems skimmer).
In addition to the stock powerheads I have a couple of MP 10's so flow is pretty good...butmaybe a couple of dead spots.
My tank has been running for about a year now and I have not lost any fish or corals (besides one hammer frag that tore away from the stalk for some reason) but growth has not been staggering either....other than daisy polyps which have spread almost out of control! The one Zoa (pictured|) I keep has remained about as sparse as when I got it and even though I like these Zoo's - I have been reluctant to get more because of this.
I have maintained 15-20% water changes every week or 2over the past year and I have changed T5's once so far.
Have I missed something? When you say nutirent load -what are you referring to exactly?

Thanks
PatD

[reefwars]

think about what your feeding to your tank and what goes into your tank,your tests will say everythig is good because the algae is consuming the nutrients as fast as they are being introduced, it doesnt take a whole lot of nutrients to keep algae growing.are you using anything at all in your tank to help remove phosphates??? being limited to a small skimmer i would consider running a small phosban reatcor with gfo to keep your phosphates down and then go light on feeding food, rinse frozen food regulare light cycle, but very importantly is keeping your water changes going....consistenct pays i would work on removing the ditrius youve been noticing either manually or by adding flow to those places



i have halimeda in my sump with cheato i can easily see how its intrusive its got some real grip and clings to the rocks well and would be hard to clear out of a display if its in there...P I T A lol cheers

Thanks too reefwars.
I do think we tend to be too generous on food.
Will look into the Phosban reactor

Cheers,
PatD

[reefwars]

its ok too feed often just making sure what goes in is eaten right away so feed small amounts more often than a large amount and with froxen food when it thaws the juice needs to be strained and rinsed , i take my frozen food and thaw it in a glass with water after about 10 mins i then slowly drain the dirty shrimp water out,fill the cup with new water and repeat three or four times untill the water is nice and clear and your left with clean shrimp. i use to blotch the shrimp with paper towel and then re rinse but now i just rinse seems to be the same to me if using any liquid foods for corals be sure to not over feed on those as well

[Myka]

Originally Posted by patd

Myka (Mindy?)...thank you especially for taking the time to provide your advice. I so appreciate it.

Have I missed something? When you say nutirent load -what are you referring to exactly?

You're welcome.

Nutrient load is when more nutrients are going in than are coming out. A nutrient build up over time has created a nutrient load. Basically, you need to look at your tank as a whole and figure out how you can keep it cleaner. Maybe you need some detrivores (Cerith snails are great for this)? Maybe you need to reconfigure your powerheads to keep detritus from settling? Do you have any filtration besides the skimmer? If so, what is it, how often do you change the medias?

Are you feeding too much? Most people do. If the fish don't have sunken bellies they are getting enough food. Feed just a tiny bit at a time, let the fish eat it, then feed a tiny bit more, and continue like this until they aren't ravenously going after the food. Tossing the whole meal in the tank in one go is sure way to get fish food all over the tank instead of in the fishes' bellies.

A Phosban reactor is a good idea. Imo, every reef tank can really benefit from it. GFO (granular ferric oxide) is used in the reactor which absorbs phosphate. Phosphate is the biggest contributing factor algae growth. We introduce it via fish food mainly, and detritus also has high phosphate. Growing Chaeto algae in the sump will help absorb phosphate as well, but you don't have a sump.