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#1
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![]() What is the correct/best way to plumb a tank? First, let me say that I have no experience in plumbing. I even underestimated the cost of all the materials.
Basically, I need to know how to connect everything after the bulkhead. My bulkhead is a slip/thread. Thread side in the tank, slip side going to sump. Heres what I currently have planned: I will be using union valves (after I found out they exist) but use this pic as a guide: Bulkhead -> union valve -> sump ![]() I would have to use those 2 white connectors (at the end of the union and ball valve) on the union valve since its double threaded. Then I connect the slip side of those connectors to PVC pipe, which connects to the bulkhead. BUT, an important factor is for me to be able to disconnect the bulkhead from whatever attached to it just in case I need to remove it, so glueing the PVC to the bulkhead might not be a good idea. Maybe I can buy thread/thread bulkheads? How does everyone plumb their tank? Should I not bother trying to be able to disconnect everything? Thoughts and ideas please! Thanks in advance |
#2
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![]() I lee lots of pvc pipe between fittings so if I need to disconnect I have lots of room for cutting and reglueing.
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Ryan |
#4
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![]() Quote:
![]() Give a good 2" between the important fitting if possible more.... |
#5
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![]() honestly i just glue them no unions at bulkheads
bulkheads are cheap unions expensive and unless your moving the tank on a regular basis ill spend the $20 bux later for new bulkheads and a couple couplings you dont need shut offs on your drain lines i dont have them on return lines either just 1 at the inlet and outlet of the pump for maintaince i have 3 reactors running off my return pump(SOOOOO much easier) and those 3 lines have shut offs
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#6
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![]() I never bother leaving pipe gaps but this is good advice. I don't bother with unions but I do buy schedule 80 true union ball valves. they'll turn smoother much longer than the crappy white guys and you can disconnect the plumbing where the valve is.
When do you really need to disconnect everything? If you want to do so make sure you're able to turn the entire lower leg of plumbing otherwise the threaded connection won't be much good. |
#7
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![]() My pump creates lots of vibration that was being transfered through all my rigid PVC pipping into my sump and also into the wall, and throught the whole house
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#8
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![]() Quote:
I only replaced the return plumbing valves, but the drains are still the cheap ones. I don't ever turn them, but use to adjust them for flow... But you can see that the handles are bent, as they never turned easy, and as time went on they got worse. They now run full open, and I will only turn them if in an emergency, but I do see myself replacing these also one day. Don't cheap out!
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |