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#1
10-03-2010, 09:16 PM
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Torch Coral Not doing so hot
Our torch coral seems to be retracting into itself- it's not inflating the way it used to. Had it for 3-4 months, and it used to do this only at night- but for the last 10-14 days, it hasn't come out at all. Hammer coral, zoas and palys are doing great. It used to be in our sand bed, thent his started- I moved it a week ago to a different spot on the rocks to see if it liked the flow better (similar positioning to our hammer coral, which is doing great).
Ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and phosphates are all 0. Water changes weekly. The only thing I can think that we've done differently is we used protomarin coral shortly before this happened, to treat ich. Pics of healthy hammer, and torch coral. http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/2...1002154439.jpg http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6...1002154450.jpg
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__________________ 125 gallon 6', 33 gallon sump \ refugium 
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#2
10-03-2010, 09:21 PM
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Can you post the levels of your tank? D you notice and brown slime around the heads.
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360 gallon sps reef, 180 gal sump, bubble king supermarine 300, 4xmp40Wes, 2 x 6215 tunze waveboxes, 4 ghl mitras 360 Reef Tank
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#3
10-03-2010, 09:35 PM
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Levels were posted- all at 0. No, no brown slime... I'm inclined to think it was the protomarin, as our pulsing xenias also look like they're suffering
Anything I can do to speed it up healing, and keep it from dying?
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__________________ 125 gallon 6', 33 gallon sump \ refugium
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#5
10-03-2010, 09:49 PM
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My first reaction (if all your levels are zero) is likely the protomarin treatment. Protomarin only says that it's tolerated by coral, not loved. If you take a look at the compounds in it, they are all stressors. It won't kill things but it sure as heck will tick them off.
I'd recommend checking your parameters again, particularly nitrates. Make sure you leave your nitrate test for a good 15 minutes before determining the colour as the reaction is quite slow and in most cases looks like zero off the bat; the true story becomes apparent in a few minutes (I used to make this mistake). I often find my tentacled LPS (hammer, frogspawn and duncan) will be more retracted at higher nitrate levels. If protomarin can kill of ich, it can likely make a dent in a bacteria population (or other similar) and cause a bump in the levels. A good, sizable water change and fresh carbon will help out if there are any nasties floating around from the protomarin itself, any toxins released by one of your corals because of the protomarin or if your 'trates are actually high. Start there and see what happens. Try to not fuss around with its location too much; you'll just **** it off. If it like the flow before and you haven't changed the flow patern at all, it's likely not the issue. Also, just something to consider, make sure nothing is bugging one of your softies and causing chemical warfare; you'd be surprised how often this is the case. Oh, and as blue tang suggested: If there is brown jelly on the torch that is a sign of disease. I didn't see that in your pic but just take a look.
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#6
10-03-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
What can you do to help it? Don't bother it. Just keep everything stable, clean and don't do too much at once.
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#7
10-03-2010, 10:11 PM
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You say that the pics are of healthy corals (unless I'm reading this wrong)
The coral in your first pic actually doesn't look all that happy, plus there is a head that has died off recently. What time of the day was that picture taken? Calcium, Magnesium, Alk levels? Mitch
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#8
10-03-2010, 10:17 PM
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I was also not asking about the levels you posted i am after your calcium alk and magnesium. My bet is your magnesium is low.
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360 gallon sps reef, 180 gal sump, bubble king supermarine 300, 4xmp40Wes, 2 x 6215 tunze waveboxes, 4 ghl mitras 360 Reef Tank
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