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#1
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![]() How does it really all work? We got a diagram written out from a friend & each person we talked to has a completely different way of doing plumbing. HELP! First off, I know nothing about plumbing. Your going to laugh... but I even had to google pictures of gate valve, check valves, true union, t fittings, etc, so I would know what the heck I was looking for in the store.
![]() My tank currently has two, 1 1/2 inch holes drilled in the overflow, then on the top of the tank running down the top pane of glass is two 1 inch holes on each corner (for the return pipe in the tank) Then the sump I got made... Has two holes where they put filter socks ![]() Also, since I have one internal drive (Mag 18) is it bad to run a pipe up from the Mag18, then T off to have two return lines coming up the side of the external overflow box and run into each hole on top of tank? Looking for your thoughts, tips or advice on plumbing. ![]() Tonight we will pickup the pipe. These are the supplies we got so far: ![]() $200.00 bucks later for just these supplies! Wowzers! ![]() Brand new 18 Mag Drive $100.00 (Thanks to Brent) This is a drawing of what were kinda thinking of doing.. Need your thoughts on it. ![]()
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~ LeeWorld ~ "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo |
#2
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![]() Going to move this to the DIY forum for you Lee. Should get plenty of response there.
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Doug |
#3
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![]() Can you post a few good pics of the top and overflow area of the tank Lee? Once I get a better feel for what you are dealing with I will offer up my 2¢ on how I would plumb.
I do already know I would return the check valves as they aren't needed and a quite pricey. Also need to be cleaned regularly or they might not work properly when you do need them. |
#4
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![]() Quote:
As long as you run your return line up up and over the top of your tank they aren't necessary. |
#5
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![]() I am assuming she will be by her discription in the first post.
A small hole in the pipe just below water level will be just fine for syphon break. |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Hot tub flex hose on the other hand is well worth the additional cost. You'll save yourself some of the parts, cutting, cementing and flow resistance by being able to bend around corners smoothly. The Reef Aquarium Vol 3 has an excellent chapter on aquarium plumbing and is well worth a read. Also consider visiting others in the area to see how they did the plumbing on their tanks.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#7
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![]() As others have suggested, run your return line up and over the top of your tank..
![]() ![]() And then maybe drill a couple of holes (into your return nozzles) just below your normal water line for a siphon break. If your sump is big enough you don't need siphon break holes as the return nozzles will break the siphon once the water drops down below the top of the return nozzle, allowing air to enter. Here are my siphon break holes. The water has drained down to these holes and no further. During normal operations the water level is 1 inch above these two holes. ![]() Even without these holes the water only drains about another couple of inches before it reaches the top of the nozzle where air will enter and again break the siphon. Last edited by kien; 08-20-2009 at 05:01 PM. |
#8
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![]() Great pics Kien..
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#9
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![]() Yup, the right picture says it all. Those pics are perfect.
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225g reef |
#10
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![]() Thanks for the pictures! Very helpful!
__________________
~ LeeWorld ~ "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo |