Aquarium Glass Calculator. Now working in PHP format (web form, no download needed)

kwirky · #1 10-09-2006, 06:53 AM

Online Version: http://www.esopenko.com/phpexperiments/calculateglass/
exe version (requires .net framework) http://www.esopenko.com/misc/SeanEso...Calculator.zip
.net framework (for exe) http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

kwirky · #2 10-10-2006, 07:12 AM

I got it working! You enter your aquarium's dimensions in inches, and it tells you the recommended thickness for your side and bottom pieces of glass.

The bottom piece is calculated according to your tank being supported only by the four outer corners. If you're using a strong plywood support under your tank, you can probably use the same thickness of glass calculated for the sides, unless many holes are drilled.

It only does rectangular tanks, but it tells you the gallons and weight, too.

here's the link to the program:

http://www.esopenko.com/misc/SeanEso...Calculator.zip

It was created with Microsoft Visual Studio 2005 Standard (Academic) using the .Net framework 2.0. You can get that from here:
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...displaylang=en

i accidentally uploaded an empty zip . Fixed that!

Buccaneer · #3 10-10-2006, 04:24 PM

What do you mean by supported on the sides ?

A) sides sit on top of base

or

B) sides sit beside base

kwirky · #4 10-10-2006, 05:03 PM

the bottom piece is calculated with the sides sitting on top of the bottom sheet, and the bottom sheet being supported by the stand at four corners (like a tubular steel frame supports a tank).

I think tanks SHOULD be fully supported on the bottom with a strong piece of plywood anyways, though.

It's really just a "fail safe" calculation for your bottom piece so it doesn't burst out.

Again, I think the main thing the calculation doesn't account for is holes being drilled. Be careful you don't have too many holes, and if you have large ones, maybe upgrade to the next size up in sheet glass?

Note: I didn't design the calculation, I only addapted it to software to make experimenting with it easier. It was demonstrated by Warren Stillwell, and here's a link to his DIY article: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/articles/tec...lassthickness/

kwirky · #5 10-11-2006, 07:33 PM

bump.

curious if anyone's tried it, and what they think of it.

Buccaneer · #6 10-11-2006, 09:26 PM

I tried it for a 660G and it worked OK ... same sizes as I thought to use ( 3/4" all around ) except the calculator was recommending 1" base ... since I plan to use 3/4 plywood base covered with 1/2 foam I figure my original calculation of 3/4" float glass base was correct

Joe Reefer · #7 10-11-2006, 09:28 PM

What are your dimensions going to be on the 660?

Buccaneer · #8 10-11-2006, 09:40 PM

Actually 618G

... 96W X 48D X 31H ... I was going to go 32 or 33 high and then remembered my old tank was 34H with a 31 waterline and it was a pain to reach the bottom

( almost had to take a breath

)

Willito · #9 10-12-2006, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buccaneer

almost had to take a breath

)

lol

, as well as armpit rashes with those new dimensions. That tank will be a sweet one to drool over, can't wait to see it.

kwirky · #10 10-12-2006, 01:59 AM

holy cow that's huge! how are you going to light that behemoth, or is it going to be a FO shark tank or something?

let me guess. You're going to have a 400 gallon tank in your basement rather than a sports car in your garage?

nice to know it was close to what you estimated for the side panels. Again, the bottom calculation is if it's supported by a steel frame, with no plywood under the tank.

If I was building a tank that large, I'd build a plywood tank myself.