DIY Kalk Reactor

[sleeman]

Well I got bored at work the other day, so went to the shop and made this up. It is 24" high with 4" extruded. The base and flange are 1/2". Why did I use 1/2" you might ask? Because it was free. I used weldon 16, but I think I will use 40 for the next one. The open union on top is for pouring kalk mix into and the flange is held together with 6-3/8 inch nylon bolts.
It was pressure tested last night, and has been dosing since about 2pm today. For those interested, an MJ 400 CAN NOT withstand 30 PSI. I blew the motor off the other part and threw water across the office.
I don't know that I would use 1/2 for the flange again, as it was very hard on the router. I actually put a nick in this flange about a 1/4" while try to clean up the edges. I had already tapped all the holes by this point and didn't feel like making another flange.
Cheers,

Al

[Bryan]

When you say the MJ could not withstand the pressure, were you hooking up the inlet to a RO unit.

[sleeman]

Bryan,
Yes, I wanted to put some pressure to the seams and flange to make sure I had no weak spots. I am dosing directly from my RO. I have a valve on the inlet side of the Kalk ractor and set it so I have a continous drip into the tank.
Cheers,

Al

[kuatto]

Looks pretty good to me.Are you switching to a MJ 1200 or keeping the one you have on there ?

[sleeman]

Jim,
Staying with the 400.
It get the mix up quite well. If it is good enough for Precision Marine....

Cheers,

Al

[Bryan]

I planned on DIY my own reactor as well, but had concerns about the pressure, would hate to blow out a joint when I am not home and flood the place.

I seeem to recall reading that if you increase the diameter of the input line the pressure is reduced, might be an option.

[sleeman]

Bryan,
There is actually no pressure on the system, as the valve is prior to the reactor. The valve is set to continously drip into the tank at the same rate as evaporation. Well that's the theory anyway.

Cheers,

Al