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#1
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![]() I own a Giesemann (Original 230 series, I believe) fixture c/w 2 x 150 MH lights. I would like to modify this fixture to accomodate 2 x 250 MH.
I am totally assuming that these two ballasts will only run 150w MH bulbs. Does anyone know where I can get Tridonic Ballasts from? Or if there is one that would work in its place? Thanks Brad ![]() |
#2
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![]() Try Commercial Lighting here in Calgary, ask them about electronic mh ballast, they can order in the high horse series. Not sure if they special order without account... If not lemme know.
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Do you smell that? Just waaalk away...... sloooowly |
#3
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![]() Binare.....I called Commercial Lighting yesterday and they just got back to me this morning. They searched through multiple suppliers and even tried going straight to Triodonic......but no luck finding anything that will work even as a jobber for this fixture. I find that kinda strange.....so I am not sure of a direction here. I guess I could probably buy external balasts for 250w MH and wire into the unit?
Brad |
#4
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![]() I believe your assumption is correct. Any 250W ballast (electronic or tar), not to mention a dual is going to be much larger than that unit you have currently. Unlikely that it will fit into the fixture and even if it did, would certrainly generate additional heat which the fixture may not be rated for. External ballast(s) looks like the best option.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#5
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![]() Hey Mike. Thanks.......I am looking at the icecap external ballasts.....but I would have to buy two of these. I was sure I seen an external 250 MH dual ballast somewhere...not that they would be cheaper, just one unit would be nicer.
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#6
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![]() Ill admit those guys over there at commercial lighting aren't the sharpest tools in the shed, my account manager is getting me a price on ordering them in for ya. Don't bother with the reactor type (cap and core) style, I checked for electronics. Only way I'd consider going reactor is if running a digital timer or a controller and longevity and cost is a major issue. Digital timers and controllers can depending on the manufacturer leak current through the id, this will reduce the ballast and bulb life. An electronic ballast will increase life over the bulb by balancing strike and maintain voltages with less differential then reactors. In your case bulbs will cost you more then these (hopefully!) Ballasts... So makes more sense to have longer bulb life then ballast life.
Ill let you know how much and how long when she calls me back.
__________________
Do you smell that? Just waaalk away...... sloooowly |
#8
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![]() Thanks Binare! So I take it that you are an electrican by trade?
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#9
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![]() I haven't seen many duals that are separately controllable, so when you plug it in, both bulbs will fire. While some of the dual ballasts have a switch for each circuit, they typically only have one mains cord so if you wish to use a timer, your options are limited. With separate ballasts, you have the option of putting each on its own timer, with the disadvantage of more bulk.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#10
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![]() Yes yes I am
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__________________
Do you smell that? Just waaalk away...... sloooowly |
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