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#1
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![]() So I was just wondering at what TDS reading do you change out your DI resins? I have a lack of storage space in my place so I use the same container to fill my bottles with RO/DI water as I do to mix my new salt water so I never get 0 TDS in the bottles anyways.... So I usually change mine out when the water coming out of the RO membrane is the same as the water coming out of the dual DI chambers, when the DI resin is totally exhausted which gives me a final TDS reading of 4ppm
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Hi, my name is Corey... And im a reefaholic. |
#2
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![]() You should be replacing particulate, carbon and resin as soon as your tds meter starts showing numbers.
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#3
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![]() Usually the DI resin will change color. It starts off blue/green then changes to a brownish color. My chambers are clear so it's easy to check.
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#4
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![]() I find my colour-changing resin isn't entirely changed once the tds meter starts reading 1. There are pockets of 'new' coloured resin still... I give the canister a bit of a shake and this gets me usually a few more hours of zero tds but then I replace the resin. I would trust a meter more than the resin's colour if possible.
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#5
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#7
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![]() I am using a dual inline meter. Its checked after the RO membrane, which usually is 4 ppm. Then again after the DI resin which at this point in time reads 0 to 1 ppm.
I was just wondering when other change there resin, as I usually dont change it until it reads the same after DI as it does before. Both of my DI chambers are blue so I cant see what color it is
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Hi, my name is Corey... And im a reefaholic. |
#9
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![]() Agreed with Brett, I switch out the resin when the TDS outputs anything but zero.
Ironically enough with the colour changing resin, the stuff I have right now changes colour well before the nonzero TDS reading. So the colour changing stuff is a really just a rough approximation if anything.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#10
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![]() Quote:
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