Advice on building a tank.

Chowder · #1 10-16-2009, 08:53 PM

Was thinking of making my own glass tank. It will be 36"lx22"wx8"tall. Was wondering if I could get any hints or ideas from people who have built there own tanks. I was hopping to make it rimless. I am not sure what thickness I should use? I would like to put one hole in the back pain for a overflow in one of the corners. Also not sure if you can or anyone knows where to pick up the black trim for a tank. I would like to have it around the bottom of the tank only. The tank will be used for Mangroves and also was thinking of getting a breading pair of Bangaii cardinals for the tank as the only fish. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Chris

Marlin65 · #2 10-16-2009, 09:55 PM

I would use 3/8" for a tank that size.
Not to hard to glue up space the BTM up about an 1/8" and don't squish out too much silicone you want to keep at least a 1/16" between your joints.
Mask off your joint ends and remove the tape before it dries for nice clean seals. Leave the tape to hold it together on for at least three days.
I had a link for some trim will post it if I can find it, but if you have clean glass cuts not all that necessary.

Marlin65 · #3 10-16-2009, 10:02 PM

E-mail these guys for some edging, hinges tops ect.
customcontrols@msn.com

sphelps · #4 10-16-2009, 10:23 PM

You could use 6mm, you wouldn't see any deflection from that thickness. I've made a few rimless nanos that are 36 long and 8-10" tall with 6mm. Use 3/8" if you want overkill, but I personally wouldn't spend the extra $, it's a big difference in price.

It's simply a matter of siliconing the glass together. Use masking tape to hold everything together (not clamps) and have a friend help if possible, other wise you'll have to figure out a way to support the first pane as you attached the other ones. You can also use masking tape to define a straight seam and avoid making a mess of it, just remember to remove the tape before the silicone drys. Don't get stressed out over things like fingerprints, excess silicone is easy to clean up when dry, and don't clean up the excess silicone on the outside seams, let it dry and cut it of with a blade.

Chowder · #5 10-16-2009, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marlin65

E-mail these guys for some edging, hinges tops ect.
customcontrols@msn.com

Thanks Marlin65

Chowder · #6 10-16-2009, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps

You could use 6mm, you wouldn't see any deflection from that thickness. I've made a few rimless nanos that are 36 long and 8-10" tall with 6mm. Use 3/8" if you want overkill, but I personally wouldn't spend the extra $, it's a big difference in price.

It's simply a matter of siliconing the glass together. Use masking tape to hold everything together (not clamps) and have a friend help if possible, other wise you'll have to figure out a way to support the first pane as you attached the other ones. You can also use masking tape to define a straight seam and avoid making a mess of it, just remember to remove the tape before the silicone drys. Don't get stressed out over things like fingerprints, excess silicone is easy to clean up when dry, and don't clean up the excess silicone on the outside seams, let it dry and cut it of with a blade.

This was what I was looking for in advice. Why can't I use clamps? I called a glass place for a quote for 6mm and 10mm and they refused to do the 6mm glass. Will try another place and get a quote. also will I be able to cut a hole in the back pain close to one side?

Thanks Chris

sphelps · #7 10-16-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chowder

This was what I was looking for in advice. Why can't I use clamps? I called a glass place for a quote for 6mm and 10mm and they refused to do the 6mm glass. Will try another place and get a quote.

With clamps it's easy to over tighten which results insufficient silicone in the joint which can cause many problems like glass against glass which can cause chipping and a weaker seam. Push the seam together so it's tight but not too tight and tape it up. I use clamps for acrylic but never glass.

Strange a place wouldn't sell 6mm, thought it was pretty standard, well it is here anyway.

Marlin65 · #8 10-16-2009, 10:48 PM

Ask them to sand the edge when you order it so you don't have to deal with sharp edges and lumps. Unless you get tempered they sand that before tempering.

sphelps · #9 10-16-2009, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marlin65

Ask them to sand the edge when you order it so you don't have to deal with sharp edges and lumps. Unless you get tempered they sand that before tempering.

Any decent glass shop should do the minimal edge work automatically, it should be included in cutting. Maybe just double check when you pick up. I find that some businesses will take advantage of lack of experience and if you ask for what you believe to be an extra service they may charge you for it while others get it for free.

Chowder · #10 10-16-2009, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps

Any decent glass shop should do the minimal edge work automatically, it should be included in cutting. Maybe just double check when you pick up. I find that some businesses will take advantage of lack of experience and if you ask for what you believe to be an extra service they may charge you for it while others get it for free.

The one place I used for baffles which was Langs Glass in Richmond did prepair the edges without me asking.

Chris