Some Feedback on My Tank Design Please

[Canadian]

Hey folks! I'm finally finishing up my masters in physiotherapy and now that I'll be back in the working world and have a little more time on my hands I'd like to get back into the hobby after a long hiatus - prior to which I was very heavily involved with reefkeeping in Victoria.

I've decided to set up a small reef tank and after looking at the all-in-one tanks out there I think I'd be happier with a custom tank.

So now I'm in the process of planning out the construction of the tank and would really appreciate some feedback on the tank design as I've always plumbed my tanks with a sump and this is the first false wall tank I've built. I've attached a couple of schematics below. The tank dimensions are 24" x 24" and 18" tall with the false wall being 6" from the back of the tank. The tank will be frameless and I'd like to run it open-topped.

A couple things to keep in mind when looking at the pics: I plan on putting two Hydor Rotating Water Deflectors on the two holes in the false wall which will run off a Y'd return pump. I'm also leaning toward putting a Hydor Koralia-2 on the right side of the tank about midway down the false wall.

For lighting I really like the Clip-on Coralife Aqualight Advanced that looks kind of like a desk lamp. While I'm not a big fan of Coralife products this seems to be a better option than the JBJ equivalent. I plan on running a 20,000k 150W HQI. I'd also like to put a Tunze 9002 Nano DOC Protein Skimmer in the back compartment.

My main questions are:

1) What would you recommend for a return pump? (assuming the tank will be a mixed softie, LPS, and low light demanding SPS)
2) Anyone with any experience with the Tunze Nano skimmer know what kind of water depth I need to run the back compartment at?
3) Any suggestions on a better way to lay out the back compartments? (I plan on stacking some foam and ChemiPure in the overflow section)
4) Any concerns with the tank design? I was thinking 3/8" glass but I'm not sure what the requirements are for a tank like this that is fairly wide with a reasonable height and no frame or brace (I intend to have SeaStar build the tank)

Sorry about the stupidly long post!

[Canadian]

Just adding a pic of an old 20g nano with 300W of VHO I had back in 1999.

Originally Posted by Canadian

A couple things to keep in mind when looking at the pics: I plan on putting two Hydor Rotating Water Deflectors on the two holes in the false wall which will run off a Y'd return pump. I'm also leaning toward putting a Hydor Koralia-2 on the right side of the tank about midway down the false wall.

I used to use pool and spa rotating returns, Im sure those are alot cheaper while acomplishing the same goal...Personally Id go with a larger return pump and some extra lock-line outlets...

For lighting I really like the Clip-on Coralife Aqualight Advanced that looks kind of like a desk lamp. While I'm not a big fan of Coralife products this seems to be a better option than the JBJ equivalent. I plan on running a 20,000k 150W HQI. I'd also like to put a Tunze 9002 Nano DOC Protein Skimmer in the back compartment.

I'd personally use a generic HQI reclector with a fan keeping the canopy cool...

My main questions are:

1) What would you recommend for a return pump? (assuming the tank will be a mixed softie, LPS, and low light demanding SPS)

Depending how much flow you want and if your gona have some lock-line outlets as well, a mag7 or mag9 should do the trick for return only, if you want lots of outlets and are gona have some head issues and complicated plumbing go for a mag12. If you want inline quality pumps thats another story...After looking at the drawings Im guessing you using the back as the sump, if thats the case, a mag7 should be plenty, lots of lock-line...go with a mag9, you can always turn it down if need be...

2) Anyone with any experience with the Tunze Nano skimmer know what kind of water depth I need to run the back compartment at?

Never used em...

3) Any suggestions on a better way to lay out the back compartments? (I plan on stacking some foam and ChemiPure in the overflow section)

ChemiPure/Carbon/and some other medias are great to have a spot for, foam will need to be cleaned on a very regular basis, better off to just get a roll of dual density filter media and replace it once a week...you can use egg crate and zap straps to section off compartments...

4) Any concerns with the tank design? I was thinking 3/8" glass but I'm not sure what the requirements are for a tank like this that is fairly wide with a reasonable height and no frame or brace (I intend to have SeaStar build the tank)

3/8" with euro bracing should be dandy, since your asking...I like black silicone...

Sorry about the stupidly long post!

Dont worry bout it, its the long stupid posts that ya gota worry about.....

[Canadian]

Thanks for the reply UnderWorldAquatics!

I should have mentioned that one of my preoccupations with this tank is to make sure that the equipment is well hidden - so I'm doing everything I can to avoid Loc-Line fittings. Additionally, this is why I am leaning toward the Coralife Aqualight Advanced clip-on light - it's tidy looking and doesn't require an ugly lighting hood.

Originally I had gravitated toward a Mag return pump based on my previous experience but I recall them being pretty high wattage and dumping a lot of heat into the tank. I want to use the lowest wattage and most efficient pumps I can to keep the tank temp down so I can try to avoid having to buy a chiller. Hence the rationale for the Koralia.

Using eggcrate is kinda what I had in mind for partitioning things off for filter media. I like the idea of the dual density foam - I'll replace it weekly and maybe even rinse it every other day.

And I like black silicone too! I'm not sure about the Euro bracing though. Again, I want to keep the tank looking as much like a clean glass box as I can and I think the Euro bracing will take away from that look and complicate things in terms of putting the false wall in and clipping the Coralife fixture on. Do you think it's possible to construct this tank without any bracing as I've drawn it up?

Thanks again.

[Midknight]

Hey Andrew,

Is this going to be glass? And at 24 X 24 I would be put a small lip around it.
But that is JMO.

Opps, just saw the 3/4 glass line. That thick you might not need bracing.

[Canadian]

Originally Posted by Midknight

Hey Andrew,

Is this going to be glass? And at 24 X 24 I would be put a small lip around it.
But that is JMO.

Opps, just saw the 3/4 glass line. That thick you might not need bracing.

Midknight, I was actually hoping to have it made of 3/8"

[Doug]

Hi,

Mine is 24 by 24H by 18W, so although the same measures, a different build. Its 3/8th but I have a eurobrace in the front and back. My builder said none was needed but I like to error on the cautious side. I have done 24in. sq. cubes with no bracing but always used 1/2in. glass.

I would consider the Tunze 9010 skimmer instead of the smaller model. My thoughts anyways. Someone here does run the smaller one but I would have to find his thread. He sems to like it also. I own a 9010 and have a review in that section. You can run the water height lower in the back then, if run in the sump mode. If run in the tank mode, it needs be near the top of the skimmer but of course the skimmer can be lowered on its brackets.

[Canadian]

Hey Doug! You're one of the guys I recognize from way back (on RC too )

Do you happen to have a pic of your tank? I did a quick search for your username but didn't come up with any posts that were blatantly obvious in my admittedly hasty search. Also, do you have any pics of your skimmer set up? I haven't actually seen a Tunze skimmer set up so I'm not sure how the brackets are configured and how they function.

And good to hear that worst case scenario I can get away with 1/2" glass and no brace (although I'd prefer the 3/8").

[Doug]

http://216.187.96.54/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33008

Some on my tank here Andrew.

http://216.187.96.54/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30063

More Tunze info here.

Hope some of that helps. The brackets are almost identical to the stream pump brackets, if you have seen them. The skimmer uses two. It can be slid up or down the brackets, depending on the water level. They are not used in the sump mode.

[Canadian]

Thanks a million Doug!