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#1
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![]() I just upgraded my lighting from PC to M/H and am wondering how I should phase in the extra illumination so things don't overdose on the extra lighting.
Cut back hours? Cycle between the mh and actinics? ![]() Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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![]() Greg |
#2
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![]() I used the "one hour on, one hour off" timing, then worked up in 15-min intervals over 10 days until full-on. This caused a fair bit of bulb aging that I didn't anticipate - all the extra on-off cycles.
Others have used layers of screening over the tank, removing them one by one until all gone. Can you adjust for height with the new fixture? That would be another option, or to use in combination.
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---------------------- Alan |
#3
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![]() i just let em have it. they adjusted themselves over a few days
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a tout le monde, a tous les amis. je vous aime, je dois partir. |
#4
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![]() I started with a 3 hour MH (still leaving my PC's on 8:30am to 10pm)
Then I added 1 hour every 2 days until I had my desired length of time for my MH's. Everyone seems very happy ![]()
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Gerald Home:160Gal. Foxface, Yellow Tang, Blue Tang, Coral Beauty, Lawnmower Blenny, Starwberry Dottyback, Mandarin Goby, 2 Percula Clowns, Green Brittle Star, Brown Brittle Star, Chocolate Chip Star, Cleaner Shrimp Store: 33Gal. Green Brittle Star, Chocolate Chip Star, Peppermint Shrimp |
#5
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![]() I am assuming that since each of you have a different opinion on this matter that there is no actual "text book" answer. I do however value and appreciate your input. An interesting side note is although I know the M/H are brighter it doesn't really seem like it to my eye. However since the change my RBTA is now bubbling again so there must be quite a difference. I guess I can now start adding in some acropora corals to the reef.
Thanks.
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![]() Greg |
#6
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![]() I think BCWolfen pegged the idea of the standard way to increase lighting. Any thing along that simular time frame works. Just keep increasing the time period they are on over a period of a week or so.
Dave |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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Mark. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
there are 2 ways to do it, recommended by most big names and this is using a screening in several layers (about 10) and removing a layer every couple days or there is the increasing interval, which is good for people who can use screens due to the layout of the tank / cabinet or what ever. so start 1 hour on then 1 hour off and do this for the normal photo period so 10 to 12 hours a day, after 3 or 4 days increase it to 1.24 hour on .75 hour off for another 3 or 4 days, then 1.5 hours on 0.5 hour off for 3 or 4 days then 1.75 hour on .24 off for 3 or 4 days then full on, the problem with this is you do need a digital timer to pull it off. if you are going from good PC's to say 175's or what ever for the most part you should be able to get away with the switch, but if you were going from PC's to 250HQI's or 400s and even some normal 250 watt setups then I suggest one of the methods. as for bulb life not going to make a difference we will see as we throw out our bulbs be for there life is even close to being used up anyways. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#9
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![]() Quote:
Actually, I just upgraded from PC to MH recently, too. (Before Snappy started this thread). To be honest, I didn't think to follow much of any regimen at all. ![]() Cheers,
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Mark. |
#10
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![]() I have to also admit that I just switched my hex tank from having 3 65wPC & 2 T5s straight over to one 175w MH & the 2 T5 (actinic & 20000k). My corals seem to have adjusted themselves, although I went from a 12 hour photoperiod to an 8 hour one for the MH. My bulb is an older one so it's lost some of its intensity. Next month (hopefully), all my corals & clams will be under a full MH/actinic system when we move & I get to turn my 100g FOWLR into a 100g reef/seahorse ranch
![]() Anthony
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