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![]() So I will be upgrading my tank in the very near future here. Im thinking of a typical 220 (72"Lx24"Dx30"T)
I emailed concepts for a ballpark shipping quote to Vancouver which turned out much much lower than expected. so It looks like ill be getting it from them. tank will be visible from the front and right side the left side will be roughly a foot off the wall just for cleaning purposes so my initial thoughts are: a bean animal drain what size holes? 1.5"? for 1" piping or 2" and run 1.5" piping? returns will go over the top. I want one hole in the back glass somewhere to hookup to a hose so I just open a valve and water drains. My current tank is drilled for CL and this works well for WC even tho I don't use the CL anymore. current sump is a 40 breeder but I think a 75 would be a better choice. more volume and still shallow. I will obviously need to order another light since my 48" evergrow IT2012 wont have enough spread, so probably the 16" controllable one. the rest of my equipment will just transfer over. apex, dosing pumps, top off pump, vertex in 280, snapper running GFO and carbon once in a while, and powerheads internal or external overflow? my only concern with an external overflow is fitting it through doorways......currently where I live my sliding door is 10' so not an issue but I dont plan on being here forever. either way I would prefer the bulkheads out the back as opposed to the bottom. Im thinking just regular glass since Ive never complained about my current tank and I didnt get a price for starphire but from what I gather its quite a bit more expensive. i have a canopy so I dont see the point in paying for eurobracing over regular trim since its hidden anyway. any comments, ideas or advice? it will be an SPS tank if anyone from concepts happens to see this whats the typical lead time required? i forgot to ask this in my email ![]()
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#2
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#3
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![]() If I remember correctly, it should be no more than a month to get to you.
When are you planning for your tank? I'm doing one similar, but won't need it until next summer. While I initially wanted starfire since this would be my long term "dream tank" It's also been mentioned that starfire scratches easier than regular, and for a long term focal point, not sure if that's the way to go. But on the flip side, it's gonna be a peninsula room divider, so maybe the extra clarity will be worth it? Kinda hard to say, you'd pretty much need side by side comparison to really know what visual difference there may be. Cheers!
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#4
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![]() It's not a peninsula. It will basically be in a corner of the living room.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#5
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#6
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![]() Thanks but 4x4 would stick out to far in my living room.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#7
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![]() So I will be upgrading my tank in the very near future here. Im thinking of a typical 220 (72"Lx24"Dx30"T) Welcome to the wet armpit crowd. Have you considered flopping it sideways so it's 30" wide and 24" tall?
so my initial thoughts are: a bean animal drain I don't see the point in drilling an extra hole and doing extra piping. I've never even heard of a Herbie overflowing so IMO a Bean Animal is a waste of time, effort, and supplies. ![]() what size holes? 1.5"? for 1" piping or 2" and run 1.5" piping? I'd do two 1.5" drains (bulkhead and piping) for Herbie, and 1" return. current sump is a 40 breeder but I think a 75 would be a better choice. Agreed. the rest of my equipment will just transfer over. apex, dosing pumps, top off pump, vertex in 280, snapper running GFO and carbon once in a while, and powerheads I'd get a bigger/better skimmer, JMHO. internal or external overflow? my only concern with an external overflow is fitting it through doorways......currently where I live my sliding door is 10' so not an issue but I dont plan on being here forever.Have you considered false wall where it's an internal overflow, but it spans the full height/width of the end? either way I would prefer the bulkheads out the back as opposed to the bottom. Really? That just makes you use more elbows in the plumbing. i have a canopy so I dont see the point in paying for eurobracing over regular trim since its hidden anyway. Sometimes eurobracing is cheaper because it allows the builder to use thinner glass. I'd ask for a price each way. The nice thing about eurobracing (or trim) is that when you use a magnet glass cleaner you don't splash water where trimless you splash water easily. Drives me bonkers. any comments, ideas or advice? it will be an SPS tank Nice. ![]() ![]() |
#8
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#9
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![]() My only 2 cents would be to go to a much much MUCH bigger skimmer than vertex in-280. You should aim for something that is "hypothetically rated" for something like a 500 gallon tank to the least.
Will look forward to your build ![]()
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#10
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![]() ^ Im aware with the vertex in280 its 'undersized' but its currently what i can afford. too many hobbies not enough $$
![]() I always thought skimmers were more about your bioload size than anything else but they used tank size as an average reference. so without any intentions of adding more fish from my 120 to the new tank It should/hopefully suffice until I can afford a bigger one. I could be out to lunch as well on the subject. except being poor Im sure about that.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |