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#1
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![]() Hi all,
Would anybody be willing to perform a sanity check on the below drawing for a two tank return with added UV. The input is a 2" Slip connector The required outputs are: 1x 1" Barbed - To tank 1 1x 1 1/2" Barbed - To Tank 2 2x 3/4" Barbed - to UV I may eventually run my GFO and carbon off of it as well, So I have left two capped off ends for expansion I have exaggerated lengths for piping to make them more noticeable, and have not included any unions yet. My worry, as I don't work with pipes that often, is that I have the correct sizes of adapters, valves and other fittings. ![]() |
#2
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![]() 2" pvc pipe won't fit into a 1.5" "+"
take a good look and make sure your fittings are proper size. also your barbed fittings, is that the barb size? you need to know the other end size to make sure you get the right reducer sizes also. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#3
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![]() I would move the gate valve that leads to tank 1 to the other side. By that I mean you have a gate before the T, I would have it after. As you have it now your gate valve restricts the flow both to tank 1 and your reactor/uv setup.
There are other bits and pieces I find confusing. For example you will have a 1.5 pipe, a 1.5 to 1.25 reducer, then a 1 barb, or some such. Wouldn't that reducer have to be 1.5 to 1? Anyhoo, I admire the preplanning! - Ian |
#4
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![]() I would eliminate that cross fitting and that 1" bullhead tee altogether. That whole area will have poor water flow. I have never seen a cross fitting used by any plumber. Just replace it with a manifold system after your first tee off the pump.
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#5
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![]() I agree, a cross fitting will be murder on the water flow, use a manifold instead. You can reduce after the manifold fitting where needed.
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90g reef / 55g sump / 300 watt LEDs / CSC-120 skimmer - regal tang, yellow tang, unicorn tang, blue devil damsel, clownfish, lawnmower blenny, diamond watchman goby, yellow prawn goby, foxface, coral beauty angel, flame angel, mandarin goby, lots of inverts and LPS corals. Saving up for 300G tank :-) |
#6
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![]() I agree that a manifold would serve you better but I'm also not sure why you have a bunch of couplings coming off your return pump. I would run the 2" line off your pump into a 2" union and then go from there. Unions will make life much easier if you later need to take sections off for maintenance or make changes. I would go with your 2" line from the return pump, union, line to a manifold with however many branch off's you want, a valve at each branch, followed by a union and then lines to wherever they need to go from there. This way every line can be individually controlled and removed without having to shut the pump down.
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#7
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![]() Where would I find a 2" Manifold?
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#8
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![]() You would just make one using T's and short pieces of pipe as connectors. Your hot water tank in your house probably has a manifold for both hot and cold water lines to give you an idea about what it looks like.
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#9
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![]() For sure a manifold coming right off your pump, put a gate valve on each of the lines coming out of the manifold so you can control every bit of flow as some I assume you will want a little different. Keep it simple and as short as possible for max flow and pump life.
If you like I can draw up a plan with all the fitting sizings in the next couple days, LMK. What pump are you planning on using?
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build Last edited by The Grizz; 12-14-2013 at 04:49 AM. |
#10
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![]() Thank you . That would be wonderful.
I have a HY-Drive Waterfall Pump - 6000 My one tank has 10 ft head the other 4 + a 15ft horizontal run |