Quote:
Originally Posted by mike31154
I looked up the specs on the EB8 energy bar & had a quick read. You probably know all this, but for the benefit of any further troubleshooting..... I see that it has a built in circuit breaker, 2 mechanical relay switched outlets rated to 10 amps maximum each & 6 solid state switched outlets rated to 5 amps maximum each. Each 250 watt Halide should draw about 2 amps & I would recommend using the mechanically switched outlets for those. I suspect they draw somewhat more than 2 amps when starting up to get the voltage needed to strike an arc in the lamp. You need to be careful not to overload the power bar. It does warn that maximum current for the whole bar is 15 amps & the built in breaker should trip if you exceed that, but even circuit breakers can mess up. It's easy to get carried away plugging stuff into something that conveniently switches so many components for you. If you were to use each individual outlet to its max allowable, you'd very quickly exceed 15 amps, in fact simply using 10 amps on each of the relay switched outlets already has you 5 amps over. Again, you likely already know all this & the breaker is there to help prevent overload, as is your feeder circuit breaker in the electrical panel.
Any one of the outlets on the power bar could fail individually since each is controlled by a separate component, either a solid state or mechanical relay. Then there's the controller software..... Normal power bars are straight electrical connections, so fewer components to fail. With the convenience of controllability, comes complexity & additional failure modes. It's a bit difficult to trust the current monitoring feature of a controller that shows a 75 amp spike and there is nothing burnt out. That's likely why the last electrician wasn't much help. Not all electricians are knowledgeable in electronics theory, many are great installers & know the electrical code to wire houses very well, but they don't need a lot of solid state/electronics theory to do that. Obviously there are industrial qualified electricians out there that deal with control circuitry, robotics etc., but that's generally not the guy that mostly does residential wiring. Different levels of training.
Is the GFI you're using one of the portable plug in types?
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I did know that, but had forgotten about the types of plugs etc over time, as it never caused an issue before. At one time I had figured out how to calculate how many amps each item pulled etc, so that I could plug all my stuff into each EB8 and not be over the max, but have forgotten that as well. .
Each
The eb4 rarely goes above 1 amp as the dosers pull a fraction of that.
The one eb8 pulls an avg of 9.6 amps and the one that is causing issues is around 12 is
With everyone helping out with ideas, it has lead me to wonder if my chiller is not being part of the issue. If it is going on and off, it will pull a lot of amps.
Do different ballasts pull different amps? I wonder if it is because I changed ballasts, the new ballast pulls more amps and when the chiller goes on, it exceeds the max for that EB8? Which makes the graph show unrealistic spikes....
The GFI I am using is a permanent wall mounted one. Paid 30 a pop for them.
The 3:00 time may just be coincidence or the chiller just needs to go on at that time. Nothing has been changed on that EB8 all hardware is the same and in the same outlets. The only thing differenth is the new ballast.. then again, did the apex cause my galaxy ballast to fry? Is it possible?
I like puzzles, but I may have to look at getting someone in...