Quote:
Originally Posted by rishu_pepper
So far I have these in mind, as far as shopping list goes:
3x bulkheads (two for drain lines, one for return)
4' PVC pipe (for the two drain lines)
4' flex PVC (for return line, I want to go this direction to lessen horizontal travel)
2x true union gate/ball valve (for main drain line flow adjustment, and one for return flow into refugium)
1x tee valve (for teeing off flow from return to refugium)
2x union (one for return pump, one for emergency drain line)
PVC glue
teflon tape for threads
I do not plan to have a manifold at this time, since I have decided not to run biopellets, so I don't have any reactors other than a TLF for RowaPhos, and I'll just run that on its own.
*stupid question* 1.5" size for all the bulkheads/pipes related to the drain, and 1" size for the return pump line?
Let me know if I'm missing things  |
Looks fine to me. Do you have to do any corners with with vinyl? It likes to kink after awhile (someone else said this too). Don't forget sandpaper. How are you cutting the pipe?
If you're using Loc-line for the return inside the tank (I always do) make sure you buy bulkheads with threads on the inside. You will need a reducer because Loc-line only comes in 1/2" and 3/4". If you can find a SCH80 reducer then it will be grey instead of white, which is nice as it will blend in better with the black Loc-line. If you're using vinyl tubing, I imagine you will be using a 90 degree elbow hose barb fitting with thread on the other end, so you will want your return bulkheads to be thread on both ends.
For the drain lines you will want slip (socket) on both ends. You don't have to glue your standpipes in - I prefer not to. Then when cleaning the overflow you can put a sock on the drain and pull the pipes and clean it out real well. They will seal just fine without being glued - double check by filling the overflow with water with the standpipes in and return flow off, mark the water level. Check back in 30 mins and see if the water level went down in the overflow.