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Old 07-22-2014, 10:43 PM
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Craigdillman Craigdillman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitas5 View Post
Ok, I get it, the only other reason I was considering UV, was the algae on the glass, thought I'll keep it for algae if it does not help with the ich.

As for the ich, I have some logistic questions..

2 ways I was thinking to handle this if it gets any worse at all:
- move all fish to quarantine, treat with hypo 1.008 for a week or two, but don't move them back to the DT for another week, but start raising the salts and add some live rock I have cycling separately for the last 3 weeks on their own.. QT is small and keeping amonia away is a challenge.

- do same, except instead of hypo, treat with copper and then keep doing water changes till all copper gone before adding live rock..

Am I leaving any loopholes here for parasite to survive?

Fishes I have: maroon clown, yellow tang, mandarin, yellow stripe gobby. Even though I was told mandarin can not get ich, was thinking I would need to move him too?




And thansk again for all the advice..
Ok man IMMA Help you out here

Both the hypo or copper will work but

- you need a month of hypo for it to be sure you get it 2 weeks isn't long enough
- copper is a shorter process than hypo and might be better to be quick for the mandarin cause thats gonna cause a problem

EITHER way you need to keep the DT fallow no fish for 8 weeks or all your work will go to waste, yes most concensious is that mandarins are mostly immune or less likely to get to ich BUT they can still be a carrier of it and it would suck to do all the work and waste the time

Have you looked up the TT method? For the price of that UV serializer u were talking about you can go on kijiji/canreef and get 2 used 20-30 gallon tanks 2 heaters 2 old crappy HOB filters and lids and do the TT method its only 14 days i think and after you just keep them in the tank for 6 more weeks and make sure the DT is fallow and your good to go

Sounds like you already have 1 QT tank and setup so all you need is 1 more used set up nothing fancy

OR last option is Grab a used tank (but bigger) and run a Copper in there if it was bigger than the ammonia is slower and you can do WC and run Prime and it should be ok

I know its a lot man i only trying to help you Cause i feel for you and went throughout the same process when i upgraded from my 30 to big tank over a year ago and got ich was in denial and finally came to terms and got my **** together and fixed it and now i won't go without QT every fish and dipping inspecting all my coral
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Current tank---125 gallon mixed reef 60 gallon sump, Reef octopus nw200 skimmer, Rapid LEDs, Maxspec gyre, Mp10s, Fuge, Biweekly 20% WC, QT everything
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