It's been my experience that without a QT period where copper band's can be trained on captive foods they have an extremely low success rate. They're naturally slow and picky eaters and in the early days it's a good chance all the food has been eaten by other fish by the time they figure out that white stuff floating in the water is edible. If you give them that acclimation period they can become incredibly robust fish.
Can you give some more details on the white spots? Are they small? White spots on fins sounds like ich (C. irritans) to me. Copperbands are known to be susceptible to it, and a stressed copper band is particularly likely to fall victim. If you haven't quarantined your fish the parasite is almost certainly present in your tank, and there's really only one way to get it out once it's present, and that requires removing all fish to a QT where they're treated using one of the 4 proven methods to cure ich, and letting the display run fallow for between 6-10 weeks. Copperbands are also susceptible to a virus that causes a disease called lymphocystis that manifests as white or black wart like structures on their fins. It's just like fish warts, and given low stress, good nutrition and good water it usually clears up. My CBB had it when I got him and it cleared up completely. Google pictures of both and see if either condition match.
Since he's already in your tank, I suggest 2 things to help getting him to eat as a copper band that doesn't eat is basically a dead copper band that just happens to still be swimming:
1. Try dropping in a supermarket clam (the same kind you'd cook for yourself). Crack it open so that the meat is still attached to the shell but easily accessible. Copperbands LOVE clams, but don't always take to them right away. I prefer to freeze mine first to hopefully kill any pathogens that might be in them but I'm not sure if that's necessary.
2. Use a 'feed mode' to feed so that the food isn't blowing around so much. Copperbands hunt invertebrates from the rocks in the wild using those super specialized mouths. Reducing the water movement in the tank during feeding enough so that bits of mysis get caught on the rocks or in the tentacles of corals is as close to mimicking their natural feeding environment as you can get without using live food, and they'll be able to get way more in to their stomachs. They're not pelagic feeders by nature, and while they can learn how to do it, it's really hard on them to have to learn at the same time they're adjusting to a new tank and a possible exposure to ectoparasites.
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